Electronic-True
Twin Conversion

(E-TTC)

By:
Jeff Lee

This page is currently Under
Development and some illustrations may not be available at this time. 
Please check back at a later time and sorry for the inconvenience.

*****IMPORTANT NOTICE*****

This mod may put
additional stress on your pressure tank, which is used to “lock on” your
actuators during 1st->1st+2nd transition.  The tank will be mainly
used in this mod to keep the Intake Air Control Valve (IACV) and Exhaust
Gas Control Valve (EGCV) open during TTC mode.  So make sure your
pressure tank is working properly before performing this mod.  If
you notice your turbo(s) not properly spooling up after performing this
mod, you may want to replace your pressure tank. (About $35)  Perform
this mod at your own risk and make sure that you are knowledgeable with
simple electrical wiring/splicing/soldering and that you have an complete
understanding with the Supra’s vacuum/turbo system routing.  So pretty
much: Make sure you know exactly what you are doing!

---

What this Mod does:

This mod (when done properly)
will enable you to electronically switch, using a simple rocker switch,
from the Supra’s conventional sequential turbo setup to TTC without the
use of check valves nor having to tamper with the hoses.  Many have
often complained about the lag associated with TTC (especially on autos),
this mod will eliminate such problems by letting YOU the driver choose
which turbo mode (Seq/TTC) you want your car to run in with a flip of a
switch!

---

The Concept:

Originally,
the IACV and EGCV actuators are only to be opened by the ECU via VSV’s
at around 4500rpm, thus switching to car to twin turbo mode.  The
original “TTC” method works when the IACV and EGCV actuators are forced
open by pressure being trapped inside the actuator itself (pressurized
from the pressure tank), either by using check valves or wiring the actuators
shut.  With
these two actuators always open now, the turbos will then spool up simultaneously. 
What this mod pretty much does, is simply bypass the ECU’s signal into
the IACV and EGVC VSV’s (which only occurs at ~4500rpm), and substitute
it with a constant GND signal.  This will keep the VSV’s always “activated”
and always closed.  As the pressure tank then pressurizes the system
under boost, the activated VSV’s will keep the pressure trapped inside
the system, thus keeping the IACV and EGCV actuators open as well. 
The output of the pressure tank will function as the “check valve,” for
it only allows pressure out one way when it is built up. 
(You may want to place a check valve in front of the pressure tank output,
to prevent probable leakage) 
The purpose of this mod is to make a toggle switch between the ECU signal,
and a constant signal into the VSV’s.

 

---

 

Tools/Supplies required:

– Splicing/crimping pliers

– Electrical tape

– Butt-connectors or wire splices

– (SW-1) Dual-latch rocker switch.
(Can be found at radio shack)

– (4) Spools of wire of different
colors,

  (24AWG or greater, stranded,
high temp recommended)

– Soldering Iron and Solder

---

!STOP!

Like performing
any other mod, be sure the negative cable of the battery has been disconnected
before continuing.

Step 1:

-Locate the
IACV and EGCV VSV’s, and remove wiring harness.

The IACV VSV
is located on top of the 2nd turbo, and the EGCV is located directly behind
the Wastegate Valve VSV.

 

Hint: For easier
access to the EGCV VSV, you may want to remove the surrounding wire harnesses
(i.e. alternator, wastegate VSV…etc)

Step 2 (Refer
to Wiring Schematics):

-Identify VSV
wires: (Constant +12v wire and ECU Signal wire)

Each VSV contains two
wires.  The 1st wire is a Black/Red*
constant +12v signal (for both VSV’s) when the ignition is ON.  The
2nd wire is the wire you will need to perform this mod (Green/Yellow
–
EGCV, Green/Blue
–
IACV)*, these are the wires which put out a GND signal from the ECU during
transition to activate the VSV(s).  What you need to do is locate
these 2 wires: Green/Yellow
for EGCV VSV, and Green/Blue
for IACV VSV.

* = This mod was
performed on my `94 Supra (should be same for `93-`96). Wire colors may
vary on different cars depending on production date, check with your service
manual (or Mohd) if you have a later model for the correct wire color.

 

CLICK
HERE TO VIEW WIRING SCHEMATICS

 

Step 3 (Refer
to Wiring Schematics):

-EGCV VSV: Cut
(yes i know…sorry) the Green/Yellow
ECU wire, leaving at least 1-1/2″ of wire off from the harness to have
enough of it left so you can crimp or put back to stock at a later time.

-IACV VSV: Do
the same as you did for the EGCV VSV, but with the Green/Blue
wire.

 

Step 4:

-Crimp and extend
cut wires through firewall and into the dash.

 

Using the wire crimper
and butt-connectors, crimp and extend each of the cut ends of the wires
into the dash.  Make sure you know “which wire is which” when
doing this, use different color wire for each.  You should have a
total of FOUR wires going into the car (all
properly identified with correpsonding colors: EGCV To-ECU, EGCV
To-VSV, IACV To-ECU, and IACV To-VSV). 
These wires will later be used to wire up the e-TTC switch.  Familiar
yourself with these four wires!  (Pics
not available yet)

 

Step 5:

-Follow the wiring
instructions for “SW-1” as described in the wiring
schematics.

 

Using a soldering iron, solder the wires
onto SW-1 accordingly.  I would recommend also using Heat-Shrink tubing
or electrical tape to insulate the leads.  Be sure the IACV wires
are on one side of the switch, and the EGCV wires are on the other as shown
in the diagram.  Find a good grounding post on the chassis to make
a ground for the switch (SW-1).  When the switch is flipped upwards,
the car should be in Sequential Mode, and TTC when flipped downwards. 
(Assuming that you’ve done everything right)

Step 6:

-Find a location
to mount SW-1.

I mounted mines
next to the TRACTION switch for easy access. (Pics
not available yet)

Step 7:

-Finishing up

Double check your
wiring to ensure that it’s correct.  After you’ve checked and rechecked,
use electrical tape and/or flex tubing to clean up the wires under the
hood. (Meaning, organizing them to make them look neat)  Make sure
the wires will not come into contact with extremely hot surfaces or moving
objects (Watch out especially for the EGCV wires)  Now reconnect the
negative battery cable, and ENJOY! 🙂

 

---

Using E-TTC (From SEQ to
TTC):

During Idle: When the car idling, you
can be able to switch to TTC by flipping the E-TTC switch.  After that,
run the car to build up some boost to pressurize the pressure tank.  Once
proper pressure is achieved inside the tank, the actuators will then open,
engaging the car in TTC mode.

While in Motion: It is *not*
recommended that you attempt to switch to TTC mode when both turbos are not
online, for this will “kick-start” the 2nd turbo if the EBV is not
open yet.  In order to engage the car in TTC while the car is in motion,
rev the car up to at least 4500rpm, allowing both 1st and 2nd turbo to be
active, then flip the E-TTC switch.  This will “Lock-In” the
turbos, and thus keep the car in parallel TTC mode immediately.
 

Using E-TTC (From TTC to
SEQ):

During Idle or While in Motion: You
can switch back to Sequential mode at any time, as long as the car is not
under boost.  Let of the throttle for a bit, and flip the E-TTC switch to
switch back to Sequential mode.  (I also do this while cruising next to a
cop, which turns my exhaust sound from a loud “growl”… to a soft
“Lexus-like” sound. TTC —> SEQ 🙂 )

---

FOR ADVANCED
USERS WITH FIELDS HARNESS:
You may be able to perform
this mod at the ECU using Terminals 39 and 40 (as
shown in schematics).  #39 is the EGCV wire, and #40 is the IACV VSV
wire.

 

---

 

Questions? Comments? E-Mail
Me

 

DoLuck Floor
Bruce

The BD Short
Shifter

To get yours Email : bdanna@mindspring.com

European Hood Scoop Install

By Ron Lambertson & Piotr Kapiszewski

 

Parts List:

76181-14900 Bulge, Hood
76182-14010 Guide, Hood Air Intake
76183-14010 Protector Hood Bulge, No. 1
76184-14010 Protector Hood Bulge, No. 2
76187-14010 Retainer, Hood Air Intake Guide, No. 1 (2)
76192-14010 Plate, Hood Bulge
93567-14512 Screws (8)
90179-06058 Nuts (4)
76186-14010 Seal, Hood Air Intake

Tools:

• Dremel tool and cut off wheels
• four plastic fasteners for the underside metal air guide
• masking tape
• drill and drill bits
• phillips screw driver
• 10 mm scket and ratchet
• razor blade or knife,
• medium grit sand paper
• piece of card board
• panel removing type tool (useful)

 

Step by Step:

Here is what you are going to start with:

 

Start at the front of the hood and first take that part out.

 

Remove the factory hood heat shield by popping out the
plastic fasteners.
  A panel removing tool is helpful.  Be
careful not to damage the heat shield.
  It’s made of a
paper/fiberglass material that tears easily.
  Notice the back two
fasteners don’t pop out.
  The just pull up, forward and out of the
holes in the hood.
  All others pop out completely.

 

Once you remove the heat shield your hood will look something like
this.

  

 

Using a drill bit of the appropriate size, now drill from the
underside
 of the hood through the four holes in the factory support
 used
to secure the studs to the hood.  Drill very carefully.
  The
hood is thin aluminum and the drill bit can bend the metal as it goes
through.

  

 

It may not be easy to see but this shot show you
 what the hood will
look like from the top right after the holes are drilled.

  

 

Now we are ready to make a template which will be
 used to mark the are
we need to cut out of the hood.

Click on this picture to get a pre-made
template,
 printing info labeled in this picture…

 

Temporarily assemble the two underside fasteners and plate with the
studs to the underside of the scope with the phillips screws. A little
soap on the screws will make them go into the unthreaded fiberglass easier
if they are really tight.  (Make sure you get the screws in perfectly
as there are no second takes here if you make a mistake). I had my scoop painted prior to starting this project.  In order
to protect it from getting scratched I used an old motherboard box with
padding on the bottom.
  

 

Now lay the cardboard template on top of the hood matching
 up the
four holes to the four holes you have drilled.
Mark the outline of
the template on top of the hood with a thin marker or pencil.
I used some spare zip ties and a screwdriver to align the form with the
drilled holes.
Once the outline is done you should end up with a nicely scratched hood
like in this picture.

  

 

Time to do some cutting. Mask off the are around the area you have marked.
  This will help
prevent any scratching of the hood paint while working.
 I also kept washing the hood with water to prevent scratching.

 

Once done cutting here is what you should see.
 Using the sand paper, sand the edges of the hole so they are
smooth.
  The hood is aluminum so it won’t rust.  I didn’t bother
painting the edges
 of the cut out. Clean the hood by spraying with a water hose.
  Don’t do any wiping
or the metal particles from
 cutting with scratch the paint.  Remove
the tape.

 

While the hood is drying lets cut a hole in the heat shield.
Here are some pics of the stock heatshield.

 

Now we put the whole thing back together.
Install the metal mesh into the scoop.  Install the underside
studs and the plate with the studs to the underside of the scoop if they
aren’t already on. Then fit it on the hood.

 

At this point I just put the nuts on to hold the
 scoop in place while
I reinstalled  the heat shiled.

  

 

Almost there. When installing the heat shield don’t
reinstall the center plastic fastners as they will need to also hold the
metal air guide.

Before installing the hood scoop permanently decide if you want to use
the factory gasket or not on it.  I used the factory gasket. Ron
didn’t. Instead of using the factory gasket and foam strips for the
underside of the scoop, I cut some thin strips of duct tape to serve as a
gasket.  I don’t think the factory gasket will look good once
installed.  It doesn’t wrap completely around the edge of the scoop
and it curves up and out so it will be seen when finished. Just make some
thin strips of tape and keep them slightly in from the edge.  When
mounted, the scoop will lay very flush but the tape provides a little
cushion and seal that can’t be seen.  I think the choice here depends
on the color of your car.

 

Insert the two factory fasteners in the middle of the air
guide.  Holes are already there.  Using a drill bit, punch small
holes through the four holes at the corners of the metal air guide through
the heat shield.  Insert the plastic fasteners into all six holes of
the metal air guide.  I had to slightly cut the new fasteners shorter
because there is little clearance between the frame of the hood and the
top of the hood.
   

 

One of the additional difficulties I had to work around was
 a front
strut bar which required some cutting of the metal air guide.
 You should
be able to see where the cuts needed to be made
 to clear the strut bar. I
used metal cutters to do the job.
 Since the metal air guide material is
soft its easy to cut.
   

 

Here is Kapi’s
car
  

Here is Ron’s car:

 

Notes:  I sanded and painted the metal air guide before
installing.

 

 

1993-1998 Toyota Supra Indiglo Gauge
Install Procedures
By Larry Ma

***More
Photos***

I ordered my indiglo gauges from www.Procarparts.com.
This is the 5 color Indiglo gauges that are white in daylight. I’ve try to take
the best pic of each step to help all you other Supra owners who have bought
this kit. The install is fairly simple, just takes some time to make it nice and
neat. Here are the steps I took to install mine:

Disclaimer:
These are the steps that I took to
install my Indiglo gauges. Depending on what kit you purchased, results or
install directions may vary. Please read this tech article thoroughly before
starting your install. As usual with any tech article: If you mess up, it’s not
my fault… So be careful.

Note: Before you start installing the gauges, you might
want to hook it up to a 12v or 14v source to verify the gauges work before
installing. This will take care of lots of headache later if for a reason they
are not in working order.

---

Things
needed:

1. Phillips screwdriver (magnetic tip
   preferred)

2. Double-sided tape

3. Electrical tape/wire
   splicers

4. Small Clippers

---

Step 1.

1. Disconnect Negative cable to battery, Unscrew Shift-knob from shifter and remove ashtray from center console.

 

Step 2

Remove Center Console piece (just pull up as in picture), and disconnect 2 plugs attached to center panel:

 

Step 3

Unscrew 5 Phillips screws from the top instrument panel, pull off and disconnect 3 plugs from back of panel:

 

Step 4

Unscrew screw near top of center console panel (do not drop screw):   And pop off center console and disconnect plugs from back of panel:

 

Step 5

Snap off and remove center gauge panel:

 

Step 6

Unscrew screw located top-left on Left dash panel, pull off and unplug 2 plugs:

 

Step 7

Unscrew 4 screws from gauge cluster:

 

Step 8

Unplug 3 plugs from back of gauge cluster and remove, this is what it should look like afterwards:

 

Step 9

Unsnap all surrounding clips on clear gauge guards and remove clear cover (be very very careful not to crack the clear guard):

 

Step 10

Unsnap all surrounding snaps to black gauge cluster panel and remove (again, be very careful not to crack it):

 

Step 11

Now you should have just the gauge and needles exposed. Slide the Gauge faces over the needles, DO NOT remove the needles or else you will have a heck of a time calibrating it later. I put double-sided tape under the gauge faces to stick to the stock faces, this way I could still go back to stock if I choose to later.

 

Step 12

Cut the slits on top left of the cluster enclosure for the wire connectors to run through:

 

Step 13

Run Wire connectors from gauge faces through the hole you just created in step 12 (kind of a back picture, but you could get the idea of where the wires are coming out of the little hole:

 

Step 14

Snap Black Cluster piece back on. This is what it should look like (be careful not to crack it):

 

Step 15

Snap Clear Gauge guard piece back on (be careful not to crack it):

 

Step 16

Use small zip-tie to make the wires shorter and neater:

 

Step 17

Put some strong double-sided foam tape on bottom of transformer and mount between bottom of dashcover and air-vent pipe (this will secure the transformer in place):

 

Step 18

Run Switch wire down by ignition (you could run it anywhere you want, but I find it more convenient by the ignition), and run the power/ground wire to center dash (this will tap into power of cigarette lighter light:

 

Step 19

Connect positive (red) of power to “green/yellow” wire and Ground (black) to “green/white” wire of cigarette lighter light plug. These are the colors for my ’94 TT, others might be different.(See pic on step 18). Note: Do NOT tap power for transformer into the stereo illumination wire, it may induce unwanted high pitch noise from transformer.

 

Step 20

Connect the 3 gauge cluster plugs to the transformer:

 

Step 21

The hard part is complete,now test it to make sure it works before installing all the panels. You’ll have to plug the dimmer switch in and turn on your lights, it should light up and you’ll be able to change colors with the switch. This is what mine looked like:

 

Step 22

Now Mount the switch on the side of the steering column or wherever you prefer and install all the panels in reverse order: Here is a pic of where my switch is mounted with all the panels back in place:   Here is a pic of the switch lit:

 

Finished Pics:

OFF:   ON:

 

THE END!

E-mail me if there are any questions at: 
mailto:larryma@larryma.com?Subject=Indiglo
Gauge Install

http://www.larryma.com/

 

 

Stock Fan Mod

How to Control
your Electrical Fans with a Switch

Or you can have the electrical
fans running all the time
 by unplugging the fan harness hooked to the bottom of the radiator.

Stillway
Shifter Installation Instructions
By:
Chris Romano

Disclaimer: 
Follow these instructions are your own risk. The author will not be
held responsible in any way shape or form for any damage, buy which may occur.
By following these instructions, the reader releases all responsibility,
reliability, or blame in any way shape or form.

 

– This document was
created in hopes of making installation of the Stillway shifter easier. 

– Please reference the
Stillway Shifter installation document (written in Japanese) when following
these instructions.

 

Page
1.

– When you open the
instruction booklet, page 1 details all of the parts necessary for
installation. Verify all components and proceed to page 2.

 

Page
2. 

Diagram 1. This
details the shifter and begins preparation for removal of the shifter. Begin
by unscrewing the factory shifter.

Diagram 2. This
illustrates the cover that must be removed in order to loosen the bolt that
allows the shifter to be disconnected. 
This cover covers the bolt required to release the shifter from the
transmission.

Note: When
jacking up the car, please take ever precaution to avoid injury. You will
need to have the car in neutral so, please double check the emergency brake. 
Also, a flashlight is recommended to view the necessary components.

Diagram 3. The
bolt to be removed faces the rear of the car. 
There are two bolts, be sure to only disconnect the bolt, which is on
the right in the picture.  You
will need a 9/16^th socket to remove this bolt.

Diagram 4. Remove
the leather cover from the shifter.  Remove
the ashtray, open the leather cover, which attaches to the shifter and
remove the plastic piece.

 

Page
3.

Diagram 5. With
a 10mm socket, unbolt the metallic metal cover form the bottom of the
shifter.  This piece helps in
keeping moisture and noise from entering the driver’s area.

Diagram 6. Now,
carefully remove the metal cover then, the rubber boot.

Diagram 7. More
detail on removing the rubber boot.

Diagram 8. Using
the 10mm socket, remove the metallic plate. 
Note the position of the plate before removing it! 
This will give you an idea of how the sequential shifter works.

Page
4.

Diagram 1. Remove
the metal pin that holds the factory plastic ring on the shifter. 
Basically, this piece should push out. 
Be very careful not to damage any of the plastic pieces inside the
plastic ring.  Personally, I cut
mine off making it easier.  You
will not need this piece later on. 

Note:
by cutting the plastic piece, you must use the sequential shifter, Toyota
does not sell this separately, and you will need to purchase a new shifter
if you decide not to use the sequential shifter.

Diagram 2. Upon
removal of the plastic ring, be sure to replace the plastic inside guide
exactly how it was inserted.  Be
careful not to damage this plastic piece!

Diagram 1. Take
the metallic piece and place it on the shifter. 
Carefully note the position of the hole be, sure to position this
exactly how it is pictured in the diagram. 

Diagram 2. After
the metallic piece is placed on the shifter, use the metal wedge provided to
secure the piece.  Make sure
that the wedge is perfectly centered and not sticking out on either side.

 

Page
5.

Diagram 1. Place
the shifter back into the proper position. 
Be sure not to place the shifter on backwards!

***Diagram 2. Ok,
now for the important part!  There
are two guides; the left guide has an angle built in. 
The right guide has a square shape. 
The guide with the angle should be positioned on the left such that
the angle directs the shifter towards the 3^rd gear gate. 
Carefully study the #2 diagram on page 5. When the shifter is in the
center position, each guide should slightly touch the square piece on the
shifter. Now, these pieces should prevent the shifter from moving left and
right and guide the shifter into 3^rd then back to 4^th. 
Basically, in this position, you should only be able to move the
shifter into 3^rd and 4^th gear. Make sure the shifter
cannot be moved left and right, do not allow play yet, allow the shifter to
be moved from 3^rd to fourth smoothly. Tighten the angled guide
securely and be careful not to strip the bolts! 
Then, place a washer on the left bottom bolt. There are two bolts,
one towards the front of the car and one towards the rear, place the washer
on the bolt that connects to the rear bolt. 
The reason I did this was to allow easier shifting into 6^th
gear. In order to go into reverse, the shifter will be moved to the far
right and then back.  So, when
you drive the car, be sure to be very careful not to over shift into
reverse.  

Diagram 3. This
describes how the shifter should easily move from 3^rd to 4^th
gear and not from left to right.  Notice
how once the shifter is between the gates, it will guide you into 3^rd
then, into 4^th gear…very nice ehe?!

Diagram 4. Take
the metal ring and place it on the shifter as shown in the diagram. 
Then, place the C clamp so that the ring will be secured.

 

Page
6.

Diagram 5.
First, secure the shifter onto the transmission carefully! 
Reconnect the bolt that connects the shifter to the fork. Then, place
the rubber cover back over the bolt. The kit comes with 4 rings and
instructions. On my car, I did not use these rings. 
My car is a 1997 so; these may not be required on other year Supras.

Screw
the new shifter on gently and position the hole on the shifter so that the
small allen bolt will screw in the “L” guide on the metal ring.

Adjust
the shifter so that when the ring is turned into “normal driving mode”
every gear can be reached.  There
are two modes, the first is normal mode, basically lift up on the ring and
turn so that the allen bolt locks and holds the ring in an up position
allowing all shifts to occur normally. 
Once the shifter is at the proper height, use the bolt provided to
secure the height.  On mine, the
allen bolt faces towards the back of the car…use this as a guide to
getting it adjusted properly.  Of
course, every car will be different.

Now,
to engage sequential mode, put the car in first gear and turn the ring so
that the ring drops.  What will
happen is, 1^st gear will shift into 2^nd as normal. 
Then, as you shift into 3^rd, the guide will set the
shifter into 3^rd gear…hence reducing the number of missed
gears!  Then, the guide will
guide you into 4^th gear. Notice in this mode that you shifter
cannot be moved from left to right. To get it back into normal mode, lift up
on the ring and turn to lock into normal position.  

Once
all steps are complete, take the car for a spin and make sure all gears are
smooth.  Some adjustment may be
necessary.  Note that the shifts
will feel a bit shorter and will take a little getting used to. 
From neutral into first, you may need to angle the shifter towards 1^st. 
This is normal, the gates are designed to guide all shifts more
efficiently. However, no grinding should occur! 
If your car grinds, adjust the unit so that the height is correct. 
Once you have finished testing the unit, replace the rubber boot and
the metal cover that secures the boot. 
Then, place the plastic cover and secure the leather to the shifter
allowing the ring to move properly.  Replace
the ashtray and you’re done!

Now,
practice with the unit in a parking lot. 
BE SURE TO TEST NEAR YOUR HOUSE! 
IN CASE THE SHIFTER NEEDS TO BE ADJUSTED!

I
hope this helps! Enjoy the unit and I’ll see you at the races!

Thanks, 
Chris
Romano
http://www.angelfire.com/ab/teamdevious

 

 

 

 

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