front crank main seal new

Front Main
Crank Seal Problem,
New Seal & Solution!

The Toyota Stock main crank seal is made
by NOK part #BH4513F, we know its does not work
well and everyone is looking for a better solution.


I
popped 3 stock seals before I found this new seal,

The seal is by manufacture NOK part #BH4513E,

and distributed by BECK/ARNLEY
, of course you
wont find it under that name/number, it will be under AutoZone part #

052-3725,
$15.13 at

www.Autozone.com

 

 

 

 


This is actually a new crank
seal that look almost %99 like the stock crank
seal but Toyota doesn’t sell it!, the stock crank seal is made by NOK part
number BH4513F, the new crank seal I found is part number BH4513E also by NOK,
this new crank seal fits tighter into the oil pump body in compression to the
loose fit of the stock crank seal, also it have 8 small stoppers at the end,
these are very important in my opinion, they stop the seal from backing against the wall
of the oil pump body and sealing off the oil drainage hole (very hard to spot
with the oil pump installed), there is an oil
drainage hole right behind the crank seal, if the oil cant reach that bottom
drainage hole or if there is not enough room it will start building oil pressure
and sooner or later it will results in hydraulic oil push against the seal to
pop off.

Before installing the new seal get a thin
metal wire and push it into the oil drainage hole to clear it from any debris
(you never know what’s in there!), its a littlie hard to find the bottom oil
drainage hole, if you look carefully with a flash light you might see it but
will feel it with the wire when bent in right, its under the crank shaft on the
oil pump body, slightly towards the passenger side.

The new seal will tend to pop out when
pushed in (tight fit), I used a lot of my fingers force to push it in, I didn’t
use any tools, but I was able to get it in after a struggle, use a tool if that
makes it easier on you. Here is a suggestion from
Chris Romano
What
I used was an adaptor which is part # 548 528 from ROL Exhaust and it has a 2″
to 1 7/8 opening which allows you to seat the seal properly. I used the crank
bolt to push the seal into place correctly.

I think the RTV I used on the outer lip of
the seal helped it slip in easier. I used the



PERMATEX® ULTRA GREY® Gasket Maker
, this
will help glue in the seal so it can hold these 30-40psi runs ;-p for ever.

Also I double sprung the new seal,
basically that mean I added two springs to the single seal, one placed in its
original location and the other behind it, these two seals are also shortened by
about 4mm each, to shorten your spring simply take a good careful look at the
spring  you will find a joining point that is screwed in, grab both ends of
the spring and have that joining point in the middle, start twisting on one end
of the spring till it comes unscrewed, cut the other end with a sharp tool and
screw the spring back into itself, repeat the steps on the 2nd spring. I double
sprung because I’m worried about the spring falling off the seal (it happens!),
that happened to me and its an ugly situation!, the engine pours lots of oil
when it happens and the car becomes undrivable (engine can seize) and dangerous
(oil can get under the tires), it happened to me before I even pop my first
seal. The 1st tight spring is there to hold on tighter and doesn’t fall off like
the stock one does at times, if it does fall of, the 2nd spring behind it will
take over and stop the leak from happening, its a preventive measure for me.

I know its not a perfect example but I’m
sick of popping the crank main seal!, I used every trick I know plus the new
seal advantages, so far its been 3 months without a problem, its been driven on
weekends, its seen the dyno twice with the last dyno visit pushing 1.75-2.1kg/cm
on most runs.

BTW, my exhaust valve cover is now vented
to air, I’m using the Lexus oil filter and the greddy oil block adaptor…it
didn’t make a difference in the past if my engine exhaust valve cover is vented
to the intake or air, in both cases my seal popped!, so I had to look somewhere
else…my final thought is the cause of the blown seals is due to that drainage
hole, if oil had enough room to reach it we wouldn’t have this problem IMO (and
I don’t mean the other hole on the oil pump that’s relives the oil pump pressure
that some owners being enlarging), of course heat up your oil for 10min of
driving before you actually start boosting! I watch my oil temperature tell it
reaches 80-90c before I start boosting…Any thoughts are welcomed, this worked
for me so I want to hear from you.


Mohd A.

More Pictures of the new seal










 

 

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