TRD Front Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit Install 


!!! Disclaimer: This is a life or death car modification. If you install the brake lines improperly, you may end up LOSING your stopping power (AND YOUR LIFE!) in the event of an emergency stop. I do not take any responsibility for what *YOU* do to *YOUR* car. If you feel you may compromise your vehicle's saftey by attempting to install the brake lines, please visit a Professional Brake Shop and pay them to do it properly. This install, for those who're up to it can save you around $200.00 just in labor for the installation and bleeding of the brake lines. Have a good day, :).

Note: I suggest you look over the install on the rear brake lines first. The install instructions (Just for this tech article) for the rears are more "in-depth" as it was done first. Doing the rear first is not only easier, but will "prep" you for the front installation (Just a little more work in involved with the front). This install will be brief as most of the details are laid out in the rear brake line install. The kit suggests to install and bleed the *rear* lines first. I used about 2 quarts of DOT3 brake fluid to flush out the old stuff with new stuff.

Time: 2 hours, from gathering tools to washing up.

Tools needed: Pair of pliers (seen below), 14mm Socket, 10mm Socket w/extension, 10mm wrench, 12mm wrench, 14mm wrench, 17mm wrench, flat tip screwdriver, and rubber hose with hose clamp and front pair of TRD Stainless Steel Brake Line(s) + Union bolt(s) and gaskets. Some rags or newspaper wouldn't hurt to catch and soak up the brake fluid.

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Double block the rear tire to keep the car from moving and jack the front end up. Make sure you use a jackstand, or you will compromise YOUR own safety
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Remove the wheel, and turn the steering wheel away from the car to provide you with some work room.
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The yellow line represents the brake line. The top red arrow is where the new line will bolt onto. The top red arrow is pointing to the flare nut which is 10mm. You will use a 17mm wrench to secure the bottom piece, so you can securely back out the flare nut. Refer to the rear installation if you're confused as this part.

The bottom red arrow is pointing the the 14mm union bolt. Just pop your 14mm socket on and unbolt it. Simple as pie wouldn't ya' say? Use the "plastic red caps" on the union bolt and gaskets to keep them secured together and use the threaded one for the top piece to prevent dirt getting in the lines after you remove them.



See those two bad boys? They're both 10mm bolts that secure the brake line up against the chassis. Use your 10mm with extension to take those puppies off. Easy. :)


You should have done the rears first to know how to remove and install the new brake lines up "top" and "bottom" at the union bolt. 
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Almost done; 10mm bolts back in, snug these puppies tight. You don't want your stainless steel lines moving around and "hacksawing" away at your car's suspension.
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REMEMBER to use the new union bolt and gaskets provided with the kit.
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There are other ways/tools to bleed a brake line, but the following method is the cheapest, needs one person and get the job done with simple garage parts.

Use a hose(or a clear hose) and hose clamp to secure the hose onto the bleeder valve. Stick the hose into a plastic bottle to the bottom to make sure you don't spill any brake fluid.

Open the valve, start the car up, and press the brake pedal 3 times in a row. You should feel the pedal drop to the floor effortlessly. Jump out and inspect that you have SOME fluid into the bottle. Make sure the opening on the hose is IN the brake fluid.

Pump the brake pedal a few more times, check the bottle for fluid, and check the brake fluid resivour and fill it as needed. I slowly pumped the pedal until my "BRAKE" light came on indicating I was low on fluid. I filled up the resivour, then checked the bottle to make sure fluid was coming out.

**make sure not to spill any of the brake fluid at the body paint, if you do, spray it with water ASAP**

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Questions? Comments?  Email me


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