Boost Gauge Install

Purpose: Allows you to monitor the turbo's boost levels.
Tools/parts required: 52mm (2 1/16") boost gauge (fits clock location), philips screwdriver, 10-12 feet of vacuum hose (preferably non-black), 2 feet of shielded electrical wire, knife, coat hanger, flash light.
Time required: 1-2 hours.


1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal using 10mm wrench to prevent the air bag light from getting stuck on.

2. Remove center console:
a) remove ash tray
b) pull up rear part of console from the ashtray area

fig 1

c) pull up left edge of console around shift level

fig 2

d) pull up console over shift knob (undo Velcro on leather)

fig 3

e) unplug electrical connector to ashtray light

fig 4


3. Remove upper dash panel:
a) remove 5 screws holding panel

fig 5

b) pull off panel

fig 6

c) remove screw behind panel

fig 7

d) disconnect both wiring harnesses from upper dash panel, remove panel

fig 8

4. Remove panel that covers the speedo and tach

fig 9


5. Remove main dash panel that covers clock, radio, etc.:
a) pull up lower right corner of dash

fig 10

b) pull upper left part of dash panel

fig 11

c) pull right part of dash panel, you may need to use a flat-head screwdriver.

fig 12

d) the dash panel should now come free

fig 13


6. Disconnect electrical harness to clock, remove clock using screwdriver

fig 14


7. Install boost gauge:
a) install gauge, tighten using supplied brackets

fig 15

b) connect vacuum hose to boost gauge

fig 16

c) route vacuum hose thru dash to the left, route thru upper dash to fuse box area near clutch pedal.

fig 17

8. Connect boost gauge electrical wires to allow the dashboard dimmer knob to control the boost gauge's back-lighting at night:
a) route electrical wires from boost gauge behind dash, pass near gearshift knob. You'll probably have to add an additional 2 feet of wire.

fig 18

b) cut off about 3" of the tube covering the wires going to the ashtray light
c) connect black ground wire from boost gauge to green wire going to ashtray light. Both wires look white in the picture, but the one on the right is really green.
d) connect 12V wire from boost gauge to white wire going to ashtray.

fig 19


9. Reinstall dash panels:
a) pop main dash panel back into place
b) install screw into upper part of main dash panel from step 3c
c) install speedo and tach panel

fig 20

d) install upper dash panel and 5 screws

fig 21

e) plug ashtray electrical connector back in
f) install center console back over shift knob

fig 22


10. Vacuum hose connection:
a) punch hole thru the small yellow rubber grommet near clutch pedal with screwdriver
b) route vacuum hose thru this hole into engine compartment, push as far and as high as possible

fig 23

c) bend coat hanger to create a hook.  From engine compartment, use coat hanger to pull vacuum hose into engine compartment. This part is not easy. Use a flash light to locate the hose coming thru the firewall. It is easier to see if you are using a non-black hose. You can also try to tape the hose to another coat hanger from inside the car to help push it upwards.

fig 24

d) route vacuum hose to left side of intake manifold. If the free FCD mod has been done, simply disconnect the vacuum cap that was placed on the "Y" in that mod ("A" in fig. 2 of FFCD mod) and plug the vacuum hose onto the "Y" 

fig 25

If the free FCD hasn't been done, use a vacuum "T" to connect the boost hose into the vacuum line that goes from the "Y" to the turbo pressure sensor (see the free FCD mod for detailed pictures).

11. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.

12. Take a test drive. At idle my SPI boost gauge reads 20 IN Hg, light throttle 0 psi, at full throttle in 4th gear and high RPM it reads around 11 psi on a stock motor

If the air bag light is now stuck on, you didn't follow step 1!
Here's how to turn it off.

Comments/suggestions? Email me


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