Category Archives: General MKIV

Introduction: Road Racing Supra’s

Hi, I am Dave Hanna and the proud owner of both a Mk3 (1992) and Mk4 (1997) Supra. Unlike the majority of Supra owners I find the best way to enjoy the cars is not the quarter mile but rather on race tracks and auto-x venues which involve braking, turning AND acceleration.

 

I purchased my first Supra, the mk3, in 2008 while I was in college. I bought the car with 82k miles on it and took it from its completely stock state to a mildly upgraded, 342 rwhp car, including a full motor re-build. For suspension It still uses the stock TEM’s shocks and springs with upgraded Whiteline adjustable sway bars front and rear. Wheels and tires are stock Mk4 wheels, wrapped in any of the Extreme Performance street tires popular in the Auto-x world (Dunlop Z1 Star Specs and Hankook RS-3’s for example) I did my first track day in 2009 and I was hooked. Ever since I have done many Auto-x events and the pace the car is quite good at the local events I attend.

 

 

 

In 2009 I graduated from College and began the search for my MK4. I have wanted to buy a mk4 for

at least ten years at the time, but took mine time to search for the perfect car at a price I could stomach. I ended up finding that car in June of 2011 and picked the car up in Albequerque New Mexico the day before I was to attend the Pikes Peak Hill Climb in Colorodo. It worked out perfectly. The car was a Stock Paint, all VIN tags present, Southern car all its life. It already had a few upgrades, including a Boostlogic T61 Single turbo conversion, HKS intercooler, Apexi GT-spec exhaust, Tein Type Flex Coilovers, Volk GT-N wheels, and maybe my favorite modification 13.5″ AP Racing Rotors and corresponding 6 piston Calipers up front. The car is now corner balanced and I have gone through and upgraded things for track time longevity since my purchase which I will elaborate on in a future post.

 

I will elaborate on the track day fun and experiences in both cars but can tell you without a doubt that if you try your Supra out at an HPDE style event you will likely be hooked!

Here is a link to my Youtube channel, there is plenty of on track Supra Content.

http://www.youtube.com/user/supradma71?feature=mhee

-Dave

MKIV EURO LIGHTS ELECTRONIC BEAM ADJUSTMENT

OutsideEuro.JPG (64119 bytes)

Purpose
This mod will adjust your European Headlights Beam Height on the
Vertical Position.

Pros
All 6 lights adjust up or down according to driver preference, used

in Europe extensively when increased weight is carried in the trunk of the

vehicle. In this case driver has the ability to adjust his beams
accordingly,

in order not to blind the coming vehicles. My purpose of using it, is

because I drive a lot at night, when traffic is limited to none, I can

adjust my lights a little bit higher than normal, so I can have a more

pleasant and less tiring trip (more light on the road).

Cons – I cannot think of something,
except abuse and either way, you (the

driver) can lower your beams in case you forgot them in an upper position,

since the coming drivers are going to notify you immediately (by flashing

the high beams).

Adjustment Capability
– The beams can move about 8 inches in height, when vehicle is facing a wall
at the distance of 6 feet. Significant adjustment

if one takes into consideration that on 100 feet distance the difference

can light up the trees if needed.

Needed tools and hardware

  • 3 male connectors (6 – 10 pins)

  • 18 male pins (make them 30, is
    good to have some extras)

  • 3 female connectors (6 – 10 pins)

  • 18 female pins (make them 30, is
    good to have some extras)

  • 1 rotary switch (at least 4
    position)

  • Wires of the following colors:
    RED, BLACK, WHITE, YELLOW, BLUE, GREEN.

  • Length of each wire should be 14
    feet and gauge 16-18.

  • Harness protective sleeve 14 feet.

  • A decent looking knob, so it
    doesn’t disturb the vehicle instrument panel harmony.

     

  • Parts.JPG (81510 bytes)

We are
fabricating the following schematic


Install Photos

SwitchKnob.JPG (52421 bytes)

ConnectorPinsWires.JPG (64798 bytes)

HeadlampConnector.JPG (43026 bytes)

Headlight.JPG (88362 bytes)

SwitchConnector2.JPG (80523 bytes)

SwitchConnector3.JPG (80998 bytes)

Interior.JPG (67449 bytes)

SideHarness.JPG (46902 bytes)

ConnectorOnHeadlight.JPG (95496 bytes)

Harness.JPG (94611 bytes)

For power, we can use power from the
lighter, clock or any switched +12v. The circuit doesn’t have current while
resting on a certain position,

only when you change levels. The ideal is to
get power from the headlight switch relay, so your switch works only when
your headlights are on.

Serpentine Belt Drive Tension Damper System (Optional)

Serpentine Belt
Drive
Tension Damper System

(Optional)

– The 6-spd Supra TT use a
tension damper on the drive belt

system, with each hard shift, the drive belt
tensioner spring vibrate, it get to the point were it will be bouncing back and
forth from the spring reaction under heavy load shifting, this tends to make the drive belt slip off the
accessories pulley’s, adding this tension damper system will damp the movement of the drive belt
tensioner.



  • Click Here
    for more information about the 6-spd
    serpentine belt drive system & its related parts, from the 1993 NCF Book.



  • Click Here
    for more information about the Auto
    serpentine belt drive system & its related parts from the 1993 NCF Book.

Here are the Parts numbers you
will need to get

  • Two 91511-G0845

  • Two 90179-08153

  • Two 90979-08171

  • Three 90116-08348

  • One 90901-16001

  • One 16622-46010

  • One 16621-46010

  • One 16602-46010

  • One 16620-46070


 

 

 

 

 

This what you will get,
top and lower brackets with hardware, tensioner & absorber.




Close up,








This is how it all looks put together,





Auto tensioner on the left, 6spd
tensioner on the right,





Here is everything installed,






Installation of the 6spd Differential, Drive Shaft & Left Axle


“0” bgcolor=”#FFFFFF”>

Here are the Parts numbers you
will need to get

  • Toyota 42340-14140 6spd
    Left Axle,

    List $352.40, at %30 off $247.88

  • Toyota 37100-14810 6spd
    Drive Shaft,

    List $672.79, at %30 off $473.24

  • Toyota 41110-14780 6spd
    Differential,

    List $2308.42, at %30 off 1623.74

 

1)
Here are diagrams and pictures of the parts you need to install, you will need
the differential, drive shaft and left axle.

– This is the 6spd differential,
when you order it from Toyota it will come assembled and ready to install, just
add oil (75w-90). if you buy it used then check its condition by removing the back
cover, or follow the manual instructions for testing.







– Here are some pictures comparing the 6spd rear with the auto
rear, notice the 6spd is longer front to back, also its left side is a littlie longer.
















– This is the complete driveshaft, comes as two parts, front and
rear driveshaft, you will need both. if you buy it new, it will have to bought
together, Toyota does not sell them separately.




– Here is the Front driveshaft, the one on the left (short) is
for the Auto transmission, the one on the right (long) is for the 6spd
transmission, this is
due to the 6spd transmission being ~50mm shorter then the auto transmission.


– Here is the Rear driveshaft, the top one (longer) is for the
Auto tranny, the lower one (shorter) is for the 6spd tranny, this is due to the
6spd differential being longer then the auto differential (front to back).








– This is the Left axle, you will only need the left
6spd axle, due
to the 6spd differential being a littlie longer on the left side, the axle had to be
shortened littlie by Toyota, that’s why we only need the left axle in this
swap. Here is a table showing axle measurements from the 1995 Toyota repair
manual ,

TWIN TURBO, 6SPD TWIN TURBO, AUTO & ALL NA’s
RIGHT AXLE 598.50
mm
598.50
mm
LEFT AXLE 547.50
mm
553.50
mm



2) Here are
scans from the Toyota repair manual, scans for the replacing the differential,
drive shaft & axle.

– Differential,




– Drive Shaft




– Axle,




3) Here are
some pics of my own install,

































Installation of the 6spd Sub-Tunnel

– Before we install the 6spd transmission
we will need to replace the auto sub-tunnel with the 6spd sub-tunnel, the 6spd
transmission sits few inches higher, the 6spd sub-tunnel will clear the tranny.

– Here is a Diagram from the toyota body
repair manual showing the differences in both sub tunnels. Notice how the generic cialis auto
sub tunnel is flat, and how the 6spd sub tunnel rises few inches.







– You will need the following parts from
Toyota, shown
in this diagram in a circle,











– You will also need the top square marked part shown
in this diagram,








– Start by removing the driver seat,
e-brake, center console parts, radio and the auto shifter, you want to clear as
many parts as possible.

– Remove the ABS sensor from above the
auto sub-tunnel and modify it as shown in these pictures so it can fit the 6spd
sub-tunnel.





– Next remove the bracket holding the
e-brake, this will clear the area for the new 6spd sub-tunnel it fit in easier,
if you remove the carpet you will notice the spot welds, you basically need to
get a drill bit that is bigger then the spot welds, find all the spots and drill
them.


– Now almost all the welds are gone, but
the parts is still holding in, get under the car and start removing the rubber
holding the bracket in, Also you will need to work the top of the bracket to
brake it off or cut it with a Dremel,







– This is how it should look when your
done…




– Now you will cut the sub-tunnel, you
will need a jigsaw, notice from the top of the auto sub-tunnel how the outline
is easily shown, it extends all the way to under the radio, so make sure to
clear all the wires before cutting, you will need to use your drill to make a starting point
for your jigsaw, I started from the top tell I get close to the dash, then I
finished the rest from under the car.







– This how it should look after your done
with the cutting,
















– You need to modify the 6spd sub-tunnel,
why? The 6spd sub-tunnel is a unversal part that fit left and right hand drive
supras, basically it have two threads on each side for the e-brake, cut the side
you don’t need (that’s the passenger side that need to be cut), this part will
fit better and easier with this modification,

– This is how it should look after its
been cut




– Here are the parts I cut off,


– Now test fit the new 6spd sub-tunnel,
insert it from under the car and upwards, make sure it have a good fit, do any
modification to achieve that, you want it to fit in snugly, Also you want the 2
e-brake threads to align with the e-brake, I had to use my Dremel to widen the
holes to get the screws to reach the sub-tunnel threads.


– After you test for the sub-tunnel
fitment and test the e-brake fitment, leave the e-brake screws holding on, we
will add more screw to hold in the new sub-tunnel, I added a screw to the front
of the tunnel as shown in these pictures,




– And another screw in the back, There is
a centering hole built in the new sub-tunnel and the body of the car, try to
line them up, lining this screw and the e-brake tells you you have a good
fitment, see these pictures,




– And another screw on the passenger side,
add as many screw tell you get he sub-tunnel it fit in nicely,


– There is a bracket that bolts between
the dash and the sub-tunnel, while your adding screws to the new sub-tunnel and
checking fitment, try to get this bracket to also align up, in my case I had to add
nuts under the bracket to make it high enough to reach the dash, see this
pictures,


– Once your happy with the fitment of the
new sub-tunnel, remove all the parts, visit your home improvement store and
buy ‘Liquid Nails, Heavy Duty’ Adhesive, we will use this to seal & glue the new
sub-panel to the body, this will reduce noise, keeps the dirt out and give some
strength to the two parts that have to come together, it takes up to a week for
this stuff to become totally hard, so don’t worry about it, just give it time,
it works well!


– Cover the 6spd sub-tunnel with the
Liquid Nails Heavy Duty, be generous with it, you will for sure finish one
bottle of this stuff, now insert the sub-tunnel from under the car and screw it
with the e-brake screws and the other new screw points, see these pictures,





– I used some of the Liquid Nails Heavy
Duty to seal all the gaps from the bottom as shown here,










– Your Almost Done! this how it should
look as soon as you put in the 6spd tranny,






Removal of Auto Transmission


tt-e340rem1.jpg (100741 bytes)


tt-e340rem2.jpg (108026 bytes)


tt-e340rem3.jpg (107168 bytes)


tt-e340rem4.jpg (101395 bytes)


tt-e340rem5.jpg (103664 bytes)










Lifting the Supra

– You will need to

raise the car about 2
feet in the air to give yourself room to work comfortably.

– Best to use (x4) 6 Ton jacks, they can
support the car weight easily, and support it to the desired height. About
$30 for two.

– You will need some sort of wooden Blocks
to help the hydraulic jack to raise your supra to the desired height.




– I decided to put the front jacks under
the engine support, instead of the side frame, that gave me more flexibility to
work around the transmission area.




– I used smaller jacks in the back (I
didn’t have another set of the 6ton jack), they worked, but the transmission did
not exactly clear the body of the car, with some effort I was able to clear it.
I still recommend the (x4) 6ton jacks instead.


– it will get messy, so make sure to get
enough room around your car, I used a two car garage.




– You will need all the basic and non
basic tools, look through my install page & your
Toyota repair manual
and notice what tools you need to complete this project.

– I recommend a transmission jack if
available, Comes handy.



Clutch Pedal, Brake Pedal and other in Cabin Options

Clutch Pedal,
Brake Pedal and other in Cabin Options

1)
Here are diagrams of the parts you need to install the clutch & brake hydraulics
inside the cabin.

– You will need everything in
this diagram, it comes in a kit as one part, you will also need to get the 2 nut
as shown.


– You will need nearly everything
in this diagram, there are two switches shown, one switch is used to start the
car when the clutch pedal is pushed, I skipped that switch, cost wasn’t
attractive at $30, if you feel that you need it then that’s up to you. Also there is
a second switch which is used to disengage the cruise control system when
activated, I decided I will install it, cost was only $12, plus it will come
handy. Make sure to use grease to lubricate the contact points of the
2 springs before the install.















 

– From this diagram you will only
need two parts, the 6spd

brake pedal and its rubber pad, you will notice the new
pedal is also missing a small rubber that installed on the pedal top, simply
remove it from the old pedal and install it into the new pedal.



2)
Lets start removing the parts to make the work easier.

A) Remove the driver seat, remove
all the parts under the steering wheel, you will need to get everything out of
the way to get a clear view of the work area, plus you need your tools to be
able to work in that area without restrictions.

B) Look in the top left corner
from under the dash, you will notice a pad that been cut out, remove it, you
will see behind it 3 holes that are marked, cut these holes to the sizes marked
in the metal, I used my biggest drill bit to drill the two small holes to size,
then used a round cutter to cut the center big hole, then I used a Dermal to
widen it to the correct size, it should look like this when done.



C) Test the clutch master fitment,






D) Now install the clutch pedal
assembly, I found it neccessary in my case to use a razor blade to cut some of
the padding as shown in this pic, it might not be neccessary in your case.




Install the clutch pedal assembly and
secure it with the clutch master 2 nuts, also install the top screw hidden
under the dash (look for it), once done plug in the switches harness, you will
find a two wire white harness near each switch, simply plug it in. if you decided
you don’t want the clutch starting switch then you will need to join the two
wires together, I used a 2 wire joining clip sold at NAPA and others.


You will notice a 4th hole that
we did not drill for, this is done last, once you secure everything, use the
hole in the clutch pedal assembly as a guide to drill for this last hole, Toyota somehow
don’t list the hardware used for this part, simply buy a matching screw, nut
and washer to fit the hole, you will need to remove the front left tire and the
plastic cover surrounding it to reach that hole that you just drilled to install
the screw and nut.






3)
Now lets install the brake pedal, this is an easy swap, simply remove the auto
brake pedal, move its hardware to the 6spd brake pedal, put it back together.




4)
(Optional) The auto & 6spd gas pedals are different, you will be able to use the
auto pedal just fine, unless you really want it to be a true 6spd :-).




Auto


6spd

5)
(Optional) The gas pedal in the auto got a kick down switch as shown in this
photo, this is unfound on the 6spd, its up to you to replace it with the 6spd
gas pedal stopper.



on the left is the 6spd plastic gas pedal
stopper, on the right the auto kick down switch.


****When
your done with all the pedal work, it should look like these pictures,


6) Once the
6spd swap project is done, you will need to get the 6spd shifter center console,
shown in the upper circle of this diagram, there is also an optional support
bracket shown in the lower circle.





Here is a picture of that bracket on
another 6spd supra.





7)
(Optional) its up to you to replace the tachometer (RPM), Notice the auto
tachometer got extra lights on it (O/D, P, R, N, D, 1, 2 etc..), you will need
to replace the auto tachometer with the 6spd tachometer. This is just for
‘looks’ purpose, the auto tachometer works fine if you still want to use it.












8) (Optional)
6spd ecu, your supra will run fine on the auto ecu, but I do recommend the 6spd
ecu,
it will control your engine better,
ignition timing and other engine functions will be tunned to your 6spd
transmission.  The auto ecu is known to pull timing at shift points.



Fluids/Plugs/Brakes Service Specifications

service_specifications.jpg (78710 bytes)

lubricants.jpg (137527 bytes)

WOW. Low-mile Supra Turbo on eBay.

Here is the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Supra-Twin-Turbo-Hatchback-2-Door-1997-Toyota-Supra-Twin-Turbo-6-Speed-Targa-Anniversary-/271072398592?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3f1d2c8d00

There is a 1997 Supra Turbo on eBay with 11,000 original miles.
Appears to be bone stock with no modifications.
It is a White on Black, 1997, 6 Speed car.

It is becoming increasingly difficult to find a Twin Turbo Supra with low miles
and in stock condition.

This car SHOULD sell for over $50,000.

DISCLAIMER:  I have no affiliation with the car, or the owner.
I

haven’t seen the car.  Of course, buy at your own risk.

I’m eager to see what this Supra sells for.

SiteLock