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trac mod & speedlimiter mod

September 12, 2012 Other Mods No comments

The Trac Mod

Front brake cooling ducts mod

September 12, 2012 Other Mods No comments

Front
Brake Cooling Ducts

Purpose: To help cool the brakes under road-racing conditions.
Parts Required: Two plastic rain gutter funnels, six feet of 2 1/2″ diameter shop vac or high temperature hose, duct tape, about 15 (14″ long) tie-wraps. Everything is available at hardware stores.
Time Required: 1-2 hours

Note: below pictures are of the left side of the car. Jack the front wheel at least 3″ in the air for easier access.

1. Cut the hose in half; we’ll use
one section of hose per side. On one end of each hose, split the hose in 4 places, about
3″ from the end (fig. 1).

cuthose.JPG (17020 bytes)

fig. 1

2. Wrap this around the funnel’s
smaller end and duct tape the ever-living crap out of it (fig. 2). Hey, it’s not a real
project unless duct tape is involved!



fig. 2

3. Screw the funnel to the
undercarriage of the car using the existing screws as shown in fig. 3 & 4. Note: on my
funnel, there were two tabs with holes sticking out the “front”. As shown in
fig. 4, I put a screw thru the inside-most tab. I cut a 1″ slit as shown in fig. 4 on
the opposite side of the funnel and put a screw thru the slit (took a little practice to
line up with the hole in the car).

: fig. 3
: fig. 4

4. Tie wrap the back end of the
funnel (where the hose is attached) snug up against the underside of the car by routing
the tie wrap thru the slots in the wheel well behind the intercooler opening (fig. 5). I
had to attach 2 tie wraps together for the proper length.


fig. 5

5. Cut the hose to a length such
that when aimed at the brake rotor, it is about 2-3″ away from the rotor (fig. 6).
Don’t place the hose too close to the rotor, as the rotor gets very hot. Tie wrap the hose
using several tie wraps at strategic locations such as the lower control arm and the
plastic under-body of the car (you can see the hole I punched thru the plastic in fig. 6).


fig. 6

Figures 7 & 8 show the final
product.


fig. 7

fig. 8

Comments/suggestions? Email me

trac mod & speedlimiter mod

September 12, 2012 Other Mods No comments

The Trac Mod

Ebv mod

September 12, 2012 Other Mods No comments

Exhaust Bypass
Valve Mod

Warning: This
mod can cause problems with your second turbo. Besides putting more stress on your first
turbo, it dampens the normal prespool associated with proper ebv operation. This can lead
to the #2 being “slam started” from a stationary position. Please use caution
when doing this mod. Reducing the flow between the T’s is a smart idea if your dead set on
more low end boost.

The EBV (Exhaust
Bypass Valve) mod is pretty basic. Doing the mod simply gets more PSI from
turbo #1 before the cut-over to turbo #2. What you are doing is slowing the opening of the
exhaust bypass valve (ebv)by diverting some of the turbo pressure away from the VSV. The
ebv really acts as a wastegate for the #1 turbo and the ebv mod is essentially the same
thing as the bleeder T mod(or hose pull mod) for the #2 turbo.

You need to use your discretion when doing this mod,
because it may be harmful to the #2 turbo. This mod somewhat eliminates the #2 turbo
prespool. Without prespool, when the exhaust gas control valve opens, the #2 turbo isn’t
moving so it gets “kick-started” pretty fast by a big rush of pressure.

First step is to remove the A and B hoses(Fig.
1), save all your stock hoses!, and use regular 1/4″ vacuum hose in it’s place. Now
cut A and B in half (new A and B hoses). Insert a vacuum T(Fig.2) or Y(Y is used in the
photo) in line with hose A and B . Each vacuum T will have an open end bleeding pressure
into the atmosphere. Now take another piece of hose (about 5″ long) and connect the
tops of the 2 T’s. That’s it!.

As you will notice in Fig. 4, there is an
adjustable valve in the bypass line so you can enable or disable the modification. With
this mod you should notice an immediate improvement in low end response.

ebv11.jpg (71783 bytes)

Fig. 1

vacuumt.jpg (8316 bytes)

Fig. 2

ebv22.jpg (84572 bytes)

Fig. 3

ebvxxx.jpg (54653 bytes)

Fig. 4

Ebv mod with adjustable valve

12 volt fuel pump mod

September 12, 2012 Other Mods No comments

12
VOLT FUEL PUMP MOD

Click Here for illustrated instructions

The Concept

The stock fuel pump on the twin turbo Supra has two modes of
operation. There is a high speed mode for high engine demand, and a low speed mode
for cruising. The fuel pump ECU(seperate from the main ECU) receives information
from the main ECU which determines which mode the fuel pump should be operating in.
Various sensors come into play to determine when high and low speed operation should be
used.

Under idle conditions and cruising, the fuel pump ECU sends
a reduced voltage output to the fuel pump(9 volts), and the fuel pump operates in
“low speed”. When engine sensors determine a high engine load, the fuel
pump ECU will send a full 12 volt signal to the fuel pump, kicking it into “high
speed” so that it will supply more fuel.

The Problem:

When modifications are made to the car to increase boost
pressure and engine breathing ability, some owners have experienced detonation around 4000
rpm, as the 2nd turbo builds boost and comes on line. Usually, this detonation
disappears above 5000 rpm. The problem is, the fuel pump is still in “low
speed” mode around 4000 rpm’s, but the performance modifications have increased fuel
demand to the point of “outrunning” the low speed operation. By 5000 rpm,
the fuel pump ECU has caught up and switches to high speed operation and all detonation
disappears.

The Solution:

There is an easy way around this. You can wire a 12
volt signal directly to the fuel pump, effectively bypassing the fuel pump ECU so that the
fuel pump is always in high speed operation. The TT Supra is one of only a few cars
that has this dual mode of fuel pump operation, whereas most cars always have 12 volts to
the fuel pump. This mod is completely safe. You are basically just turning
your complicated fuel system into a basic, Camry style fuel system. You may shorten
the life of your fuel pump from say 20 years down to 18 years, but nothing to worry about
in the short term. I’ve personally had mine hooked up this way for over 2 years now
without any troubles.

The fuel pump ECU is located in the trunk
area(Fig 1). Pop your hatch, and look for the trunk courtesy light on the driver
side plastic paneling by the rear shock tower. The fuel pump ECU is bolted to the
body, under this panel. To access, pull back the carpet. You will expose a
black piece of styrofoam on the left side of the spare tire. Remove the spare and
pull out this black styrofoam, it is only velcroed in place. Once the styrofoam is
out, you can reach up under the plastic and feel around for the ECU. It is about
4″ x 6″ x 4″. There will be an electrical plug on the side of the ECU
closest to the tail light. Unplug this plug. There will be enough slack in the
wires to pull the plug below the plastic paneling for easy viewing. There should be
a blue wire with an orange
stripe. Note that for
1997
this wire is solid blue, on
1998
this wire is black with
a red stripe. – verify which wire applies to you before you
proceed. This is the 12 volt power
supply for the fuel pump ECU. It is only 12 volts when the ignition is in the
“on” position and has a fuse in the closer to the battery. This will be
the new supply for the fuel pump. There should be a blue wire with a red stripe.
This is the output signal from the fuel pump ECU to the fuel pump. Cut the blue/orange wire and
the blue/red wire and connect these two together. You now have 12 volts wired
directly to the fuel pump. use electrical tape on the two wire stubs still connected
to the fuel pump ECU so they can’t short out on body ground. Make sure you use good
quality electrical connectors so the fuel pump doesn’t see an intermittent signal or short
out on body ground. Plug the connector back
into the Fuel Pump ECU.

fuel_pump_ecu_location.jpg (41163 bytes)

Fig 1
.

Note: Verify which wire applies to you before you proceed.
For 1997-98 the 12 volt power supply wire is solid blue
For 1993-96 the 12 volt power supply wire is solid blue with an orange stripe

overview.jpg (59955 bytes)

pic1.jpg (47518 bytes)

pic2.jpg (40130 bytes)

pic3.jpg (41863 bytes)

pic4.jpg (22611 bytes)

pic5.jpg (19492 bytes)

pic6.jpg (40832 bytes)

pic7.jpg (49221 bytes)

Comments/suggestions?

Email me
(Brian B.)

True twin turbo conversion (ttc) mod

September 12, 2012 Other Mods No comments

True
Twin Conversion

What it does:
converts the turbos from sequential operation (#1 turbo first, then #1
and #2 together), to parallel operation (both turbos spool up together at the same time).

Why would I want to
do this?

This mod supposedly eliminates blowing up the #2
turbo due to shaft twist when the complex sequential operation doesn’t work properly for
some reason, especially when you are running higher boost than stock.
The power delivery is smoother, there is no
boost dip at 4000 rpm like there is with the sequential setup. This mod seems to provide
more high rpm power (my car now easily loses traction in 2nd gear).
The sound of the exhaust will increase. Notice
how your exhaust note changes at 4000 rpm when your 2nd turbo kicks in? Well, after this
mod, your exhaust will have a similar growl throughout the entire rpm range!

What are the
drawbacks? Turbo lag
is increased at low rpm. The lag is probably too much unless you have a downpipe (but you
DO have a downpipe, right?!?) and a manual transmission.

Parts
Required: 2 one-way check valves (Toyota part number
90917-10049, about $5 each from Jay Marks Toyota), one foot of 1/8″ diameter vacuum
hose, several feet of picture-hanging wire, flat-blade screwdriver.

Time
required: 10 minutes (the temporary way),
1-2 hours (the permanent way).

Note:
read entire procedure before starting (if you want to permanently wire your actuators
open, you can skip down to that part now).

Locate the AIC actuator on the top, left side of the engine, near the firewall.

Remove vacuum hose from the top of the AIC actuator to the VSV,


Cut the one foot long 1/8″ vacuum hose that you bought into two pieces and plug into both ends of the check valve.
Cut the vacuum hoses so that the length matches the length of the stock hose.
Keep the stock hose in case you want to put back to sequential operation.

Install the check valve with the two hoses attached where the original vacuum hose was.
The orange part of the valve faces towards the front of the car:

Locate the EGC actuator (about the size of a
soda can), on the lower, passenger side of the engine.
Remove the intercooler piping that is just above the air box for easier access.
The hose is just behind the wastegate VSV.
Remove the hose that goes from the top of the EGC actuator to the EGC VSV:

ttc4.JPG (8395 bytes)

As above, cut the vacuum hose that you
bought into two pieces and plug into both ends of the check valve,
matching the length of the stock hose. Install the check valve with the two hoses attached
where the original vacuum hose was.
The orange part of the valve faces towards the front of the car:

ttc7.JPG (8564 bytes)

Take the car for a spin. Accelerate moderately
to 5000 rpm a few times to make sure everything is working properly.

If you like the new powerband, you need to
permantly wire the actuators open. Don’t run more than a few days in this configuration,
because it’s easy for the check valve hoses to pop off (you might want to use hose
clamps), closing one valve and leaving the other open, which is not good for the turbos.
You will know if this happens if your 2nd turbo doesn’t create any boost.

How
to wire the actuators open:

Top actuator:

Use a flat-blade screwdriver to
push down on the hinge where the bottom of the actuator rod is connected.
Notice how the rod moves downwards, away from the actuator.

ttc12.JPG (8431 bytes)


Close-ups of the rod attached to the actuator:

ttc3.JPG (6024 bytes)
ttc2.jpg (6076 bytes)

You may want to remove the C-clip to reduce the chance of your wire breaking under tension.
Wedge the screwdriver as shown to keep the actuator fully open in preparation for wiring:

ttc14.JPG (5981 bytes)

Wrap the wire around the actuator and the spring-loaded bracket as shown. Wrap several times, then tie a tight knot:



Bottom actuator:
The bottom actuator is somewhat a pain in the ass to get to. Jack up the passenger side of the car,
just behind the right front wheel. Remove four 10mm bolts than hold the plastic passenger-side engine cover.
Pull the cover down as shown, then bend in half so that its pointing towards the front of the car:

ttc20.JPG (9545 bytes)

Here is what the actuator looks like:

ttc21.JPG (11581 bytes)

Remove the c clip at the end of the rod by
pushing on both open ends with two screwdrivers.

ttc22.JPG (14160 bytes)

Detach the rod. Tie some wire thru the hole
where the rod was previously attached.
Wrap the other end of the wire around something towards the rear of the car, pull
tight, and secure.

ttc23.JPG (12547 bytes)

Take the car for a test drive. Enjoy!
Special thanks to Jason Tarnutzer and Jason Knippel.: Comments/suggestions? Email me

Na supra direct port nos setup photos

September 12, 2012 Other Mods No comments

Direct Port
System on an 98 NA Supra

By : WWW.UPRD.COM

Trd strut brace installation photos & translated instructions

September 12, 2012 Other Mods No comments

TRD Front Strut Tower Brace
Installation Photos

TRD Front Strut Tower
Brace Translated Instructions

When I received my TRD front strut tower brace,
I was ecstatic. The form and finish was spectacular. But once I checked out the
instruction manual, I knew I was in for quite an adventure, since it was
completely in Japanese !

Luckily I work with someone who is fluent in Japanese. Thanks goes to Hirota-san
for translating this installation manual. It’s not a complete translation, but
all the pertinent stuff is here.

NOTE: Any comments I have added are embedded [in brackets]
below. Please use this as a helpful guideline – there is no guarantee to the
accuracy of this translation, and you must take the full responsibility for your
own installation.

*** PAGE ONE ***

TRD Racing Development	53607-JA810
TRD Racing Sporty Driving Parts	Strut Tower Bar Mounting & Handling Instruction Paper

Part Numbers and Applicable Models

Part Number	Type	Model	Year	Notes
53607-JA810	Supra	JZA80	All	Turbo ONLY

Contents

No.	Item	Quantity	Description
1	Tower Bar	1	“Made with Steel”
2	Washer	2	0.9mm thick
3	Washer	4	1.6mm thick
4	Instructions	1	n/a

[Note, I also received 4 lock washers which I used in
conjunction with Item #3]

Cautions when Installing

“Please make sure the tower bar does not interfere with
other parts”
“Do not tear the parts”
“Use ONLY with Supra Turbo”

*** PAGE TWO ***

Mounting Instructions

Remove the three nuts and plate from each front suspension
support. The plates you remove will NOT be used. The nuts will be
re-used.
Mount the tower bar with the “4 hole” side to the
left side of the car. See the diagram. Place the correct washers
between the suspension support and the tower bar. [Basically,
make sure the TRD logo is on the driver’s side of the car (assuming
you have a standard US left-hand-drive car of course), and use the
thin washers on the outboard positions on each strut. I also
installed the four “extra” lock washers above the tower
brace and below the nuts.]
Install and torque the nuts to 365 kgf x cm. [This
translates to roughly 26.4 ft lbs of torque]

[Special note: My 1997 Supra had an ignitor module mounted
directly on the driver’s side strut tower – this would NOT re-install in it’s
original location once the brace was installed. I solved this by relocating the
ignitor module towards the master brake cylinder side, and attached it to one of
the suspension studs with the existing nut]

Cautions when Installing

“Please make sure the tower bar does not interfere with
other parts”
“Do not tear the parts”
“Use ONLY with Supra Turbo”

Toyota Techno Craft, Inc TRD Sales Office Telephone & Fax info

Custom built front grill

September 12, 2012 Other Mods No comments

Custom Built
Front Grill

For the grill I made for my car, I used Ceramic Tile
underlayment mesh.
This silver mesh is a treated aluminized steel that will not rust.
You can
buy it at Home Depot and such. Tile layers staple it to the floor
and then
lay tile adhesive on top of it to give it a surface to bite into.

I made a cardboard pattern that fit the inside middle scoop first.
Then I
traced it onto the mesh allowing for a 3/4 inch lip on the top and
bottom.
This (tab) lip you will need to bend at 90deg. This is where the
mesh will
attach to the car. I removed the black metal strip inside the
scoop bottom
edge and placed the mesh tab edge underneath it and then reinstalled it.
For the top attachment, use the 4-5 black plastic fastener tabs that
hold
the front nose section of the nosecone to the bumper inside. These
are
located inside the top edge of the middle scoop. Using this
method, you
won’t need to drill any holes in the car and it provides a very secure
mount.

A note on the tab bending…bend the bottom tab forward, bend the top
tab
towards the back of the car. Once you look at it, this will align
the
grill up square inside the scoop and will hide all the rough edges from
sight.

Wear gloves when cutting the mesh with tin snips…its VERY sharp.
Be
careful when fitting the mesh into the scoop to not scratch your
paint…easy to do. I lined the inside of the front scoop with a
light
coat of duct tape to prevent scratching of the paint as I fit the mesh
into
the scoop…worked great and peeled it right off after the mesh was in.
Remove the black plastic cover section underneath the front of the car
to
give you access to securing and aligning the mesh from behind. You
could
paint the mesh any color you want before you install it.

I looked at installing the mesh into the two side scoops but it looks
like
I would have to rivet it in place. I didn’t want to do this, but
it could
be easily done.

Happy grilling!