New avc-r install instructions & basic tuning
A'PEXi
AVC-R Installation
*Do
this at your own risk. we dont guarantee anything. Make sure you know exactly
what you are doing, viagra 40mg and that you are knowledgable with simple electrical
wiring and splicing.
Purpose:
To control the boost more accurately and reliably. Better
turbo response and ability to monitor thing you really know noting about.
Tools required:
10 mm socket
Phillips screw driver
Needle nose pliers
Wire splices and splicing pliers
Electrical tape
Coat hanger
Step
One:
**UNPLUG THE NEGATIVE
BATTERY TERMINAL**
Start by lifting the carpet in the passenger side
and removing the black plastic cover by removing the two 10mm nuts from
the bottom of the cover, check to gain access to the ECU.
Then loosen the 10mm bolt from the middle of the
ECU connection and unplug the ECU.
Step
two:
Put the car up on and remove the right front tire
and the plastic fender. As shown in the picture, decease run the wires through
the orange grommet to the engine compartment, using a coat hanger to fish
it through the grommet. (Cut the two connectors from the stack of
wires to make it easier to route the wires through the grommet and later
solder and heat shrink them back together).
Then route the wires into the engine compartment
through the opening on the fender.
Step
Three:
Route the wires into the engine compartment from
right behind the evaporator canister by the firewall on the right hand
side of the car.
Step
Four:
Mount the supplied pressure
sensor on the firewall with the nipple facing down and run a “T”
(supplied) to the sensor and attach the supplied air filter and tie wrap
the hoses to the air filter tightly. You can also connect the pressure
sensor to its harness, which you've just pulled through the firewall.
Step
Five:
(see this diagram first,
click on it)
Disconnect the VSV and the
vacuum lines from the VSV to the wastegate actuator. Cap both VSV and the
bottom of the Wastgate actuator (total of 2 caps. Tie wrap the caps
securely). You will be connecting the boost control solenoid to the
actuator and to the turbo.
“NO” port goes
to –> Turbo
“COM” port goes to –> Actuator top
Step
Six:
Connect the vacuum line from the waste-gate
to the “COM” side of the solenoid, and Connect the vacuum line
from the turbo to the “ON” side of the solenoid. Try to locate
the solenoid as close to the waste-gate actuator as possible and use the
least amount of vacuum hose as possible. Once, you located a spot for the
solenoid, securely attach is using the supplied 4 screws and the rubber
base to dampen the vibration.
Step
Seven:
ECU connections – Connect
the AVC-R wires to the location on the ECU shown in the diagram.
The following diagram should work for
all models 1993-1998, if you need a thorough explanation of these connections,
please refer to the Terminals
of ECM.
*Make
sure to splice both ground wires from the AVC-R (GRN & BLK) at
different location on the ecu ground wire.
These connections should
give you correct readings for all the monitors: RPM, Speed, Throttle,
and Boost, which of course assuming that you've connected the wires correctly,
and that your AVC-R is set to “Cyl – 6, Spd – 4, Thr – UP”.
**Important
NOTE**
By
connecting the RPM wire to #58 on the ECM, you will get a correct
RPM readout, but you may experience problems with your injector duty readings.
Just note that the injector duty reading is irreverent in boost control,
as opposed to the importance of proper RPM readings to control boost.
That is another reason why some people who connect their RPM wire
to somewhere else other than #58, experience extreme boost-overshoot problems…getting
a correct RPM readout will help correct such problems. 🙂
Step
Eight:
Once you are done connecting the ECU, replace
the ECU cover and run the wires going to the head-unit toward the bottom
of the black plastic ECU cover where there is an opening and replace the
two 10mm bolts.
Step
Nine:
Once you are done connecting the ECU, replace
the ECU cover and run the wires going to the head-unit toward the bottom
of the black plastic ECU cover where there is an opening and replace the
two 10mm bolts.
Step
Ten: Initializing/Tuning
I have found out through
personal experience, that tuning the AVC-R is not hard at all if you don't
“make” it hard. Tuning the AVC-R can be as simple as a push of
a few buttons, to making you want to pull your hair out and go haywire
once you start playing around with settings other than your Boost/Duty.
Start off by keeping it simple, and learn to get the hang of it first before
you start to play with anything else.
1. First start off by reseting
the unit. Many have often complained
that their AVC-R does not save their new settings. This is perfectly
normal in some cases, and it is NOT a result of mis-wiring. Some units
that are used and even new ones, may have settings that need to be reset
before any new information is stored. That is why it is highly recommended
that you reset your unit after it's first initial installation, regardless
if it is brand new, or used. Go under “Settings/Initialize” and
press NEXT >. Confirm “YES” when prompted “Init.
All?” Now turn the ignition OFFand then back ON, and the unit
should now be reset and ready to store new data.
2. Now adjust your car's
settings. Under “Settings/Car Select”, set the Cyl to 6, Spd
to 4, and Thr to UP. This will allow the monitors to get proper readings.
3. Now pick a setting, A
or B (Pretty much works like presets on a radio).
-For 1.2kg/cm², I had
my Duty Cycle set at 72%. Not all cars are the same, the Duty Cycle may
vary depending on the different mods you have on your car. Let's say that
you also wanted to run 1.2kg/cm², start off with 70% as your Duty
Cycle. Now run the car hard, and try to hit max boost. If the displayed
boost level is below 1.2kg/cm², then RAISE the Duty Cycle (Use
1% increments). If the displayed boost level is above 1.2kg/cm² then
lower the Duty Cycle. Do this 'til you get it just right…and hit 1.2kg/cm².
When the AVC-R detects that a stable Duty Cycle has been obtained, you
should see a *** appear in the Duty Cycle, which means the AVC-R has
now learned your car's boost pattern, and is in “Self-Learning”
mode.
Apply the same technique
for all other boost settings. If you want to run lower boost, the Duty
Cycle will have to be lower, and high boost it'll have to be higher, vice
versa. FYI, for 0.85kg/cm², I'm using 45%. Again, Duty Cycle varies
on different cars, but always try a lower Duty Cycle, and work your way
up.
Just remember this:
Displayed Boost
> Desired Boost: LOWER Duty Cycle
Displayed Boost
< Desired Boost: RAISE Duty Cycle
And you're done! Just play
the Boost/Duty cycle, and you'll get the hang of it. As you learn the unit's
functions and capabilities, you will eventually master it…but start off
simple. Wasn't so hard, was it?
Questions? Comments?
-> E-Mail
Me
