Sep 12, 2012 // BPU++ //
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOU SCREWING UP YOUR CAR.
Ignition Timing controller that allows
the user to modify ignition timing from inside the vehicle.
Simple 5-knob face, dosage precise timing control
The Super ITC allows the user to modify the crank angle signal and adjust the
ignition timing of the vehicle. Ignition Timing can be modified + / 15%. By
using the Super ITC in conjunction with the Super AFC fuel controller, a new
level of performance and flexibility can be attained which was never before
possible with entry-level sub computers.
The ITC allows the user to modify ignition timing according to RPM specific
levels, much like the Super AFC modifies fuel. The five knobs on the face of the
unit indicate a particular RPM level at which timing may be modified.
is a very precise installation. If
YOU screw this up dont whine about your blown
motor to me. Follow these
directions very carefully and if you dont have a lot of experience in this
then pay someone else to do it! YOU
are at your own risk. Modifying the
timing on any car can really screw it up.
If you need pictures to help
you find your ECU then check out the Greddy
BCC installation. Just remember
that you are not installing the BCC you are just looking at the pictures on how
to get to the ECU.
is what you will need:
ITC wiring harness and
Butt connectors or you
can use the supplied bullet connectors
the negative battery cable.
the wiring harness from the ECU.
will need to refer to the ECU diagram located Here
the orange wire with 3 outlets to the orange wire from the wiring harness of
wires E9-5, E9-6, E9-7 (NOTE: make
sure to cut the wires far enough away from the ECU that you can place the
connector on the wire!)
these wires they are connected from the ECU to the ITC harness only!
Do NOT T these wires in.
wire E9-7 to the last connection on the orange 3 wire extension.
wire E9-6 to the middle connector on the orange wire
wire E9-5 to the connector closest to the connection to the wiring harness
to the ITC.
wire E9-25 and connect the wire from the ECU to the Yellow wire on the ITC
wire E9-26 and connect the wire from the ECU to the White wire on the ITC.
wire E9-27 and connect the wire from the ECU to the Dark Blue wire on the
we are finished with the wires going to the ECU only.
Make sure you Did NOT T any of the
previous wires in.
the brown 3 connector extension on the brown wire in the ITC wiring harness.
the wire E9-7 heading AWAY from the ECU towards the engine compartment
(remember you cut this wire in half earlier) to the brown wire connector
closest to the connection to the ITC harness. (If this sound complicated think about it for a
the wire E9-6 heading AWAY from the ECU towards the engine compartment to
the middle connector on the brown wiring extension.
the wire E9-5 heading AWAY from the ECU towards the engine compartment to
the last connector on the brown extension.
the wire E9-25 heading AWAY from the ECU towards the engine compartment to
the Green wire.
the wire E9-26 heading AWAY from the ECU towards the engine compartment to
the Pink wire.
the wire E9-27 heading AWAY from the ECU towards the engine compartment to
the light blue wire.
Now you have finished wiring up everything except for power and
ground. Quaddruple check your
connections. You do not want
ANYTHING to be loose or half ass done.
next two wires are going to be spliced in. I suggest using a good quality tap or using a butt
black cable (GROUND) will be connected to ECU wire E9-69
red cable (12V+) will be connected to ECU wire E10-31
Now you have all of the wiring done up.
I really want to stress to every one that this needs to be a high quality
installation. This isnt like
installing a BCC this can really mess up your car.
Reconnect the wiring
harness to your ECU. Make sure all
of those wires are tight.
Next make sure that on
the back of the ITC head unit that the Car select dial is set at 0
and All of the dip switches should be UP.
Plug the harness into
the ITC. Reconnect your battery cable.
Leave everything at 0 and hopefully start
As far as tuning goes
I recommend you leave everything at 0 until you are
on the dyno with an experienced tuner, Air/Fuel monitoring, etc.
You will want to retard the timing in the high end under boosting
conditions. But that is all I will
give. Do NOT email me and ask me
what I set mine at because my car isnt anything like yours 😛
I dont know how
much HP this mod will make if any. It
will help reduce head pressure and could even solve some high end detonation
problems most Supras have. This
would be especially helpful if you have a single turbo.