Category Archives: Other Mods

Other info

new readers rides system!! click here to put in your entry.

mkiv.com

mkiv technical articles

last updated
05/03/2004

disclaimer:
mkiv.com is not responsible for any negligence in installation or inaccuracies of the procedures.
use at your own risk!
index

bpu
   (basic performance upgrades)
1.
downpipe,
exhaust
& intake
downpipe photos
exhaust
photos
exhaust sounds
downpipe
installation
by dan marohl
cone
filters test results! ( 1 )  ( 2
)

custom
fitted apex’i air filter

by brian shoffner / shane duvall


apex’i air filter kit
by

erven
k&n
drop in air filter photos
k&n cone filter extension mod
by todd rafferty
k&n
air filters catalog
air
filter boxes
2.
fuel
cut
control
greddy bcc install
& tune
highly recommended  
by
brian b. & brian b.
greddy boost cut
controller(bcc) notes
by lance wolrab / david ruder
free fuel cut defencer (ffcd)
not recommended  
by randy dellinger
hks fuel cut defencer (fcd)
not recommended  
by william cruickshanks
3.
boost
control

electronic boost controllers(ebc)
photos
new avc-r install instructions &
basic tuning
by jeff lee
& mani jayasinghe
new
avc-r advanced tuning
by jeff lee
the new avc-r instructions manual
by mani jayasinghe
blitz dsbc electronic boost controller installation
by randy dellinger
blitz dsbc
users manual
by roger gerl
wastegate bleeder t mod
by randy dellinger
manual boost controller
by jason knippel / randy dellinger
clamp
mod
by peter w.
vsv bypass mod
by brian b.
vsv mod
turbo essentials

blitz new bov kit
turbo timers
photos
hks turbo timer installation
by shaun tran / brian b.
blow-off valve photos
twin
stock bov mod
spi
boost gauge install


by randy dellinger

a-pillar
photos install 
  by steve hayes 
a-pillar
photos
bpu+
   (basic performance upgrades plus)

adjustable
cam gears install
   by
brian b.

adjustable
cam gears photos
hks
fmic type-s photos
   by dusty / dan w. /
hesham o.
greddy
fmic install photos(for stock turbos)
by andi b.
bpu++
   (basic performance upgrades plus plus)
fuel
control photos – (afc,sfc,vpc/gcc & more)
 
greddy
e-manage fuel controller install
   by steve v. & mohd a.
apexi
afc install instructions

by steve v. & robert s.

apex’i
itc installation

by robert s.

nos
install photos
apu    (advanced performance upgrades)
 
greddy
e-manage fuel controller install
  fuel
pumps testing
   by david henry
fuel
control(afc,sfc,vpc/gcc & more)
apexi
afc install instructions

by steve v. & robert s.

apex’i
itc install instructions
by robert s.
rps
turbo kit photos & install
rps
turbo kit photos
hks gt
intercooler install photos

by willie yee
hks t04r
install photos

by willie yee
hks
twin turbo install photos
by reg riemer & benjamin
treynor
hks single turbo install photos
by reg riemer
vpc install instructions
by nick p. & alan stanek
fuel system upgrade with 720 injectors
by nick p.
other
mods
/ photos
the following articles cover general
modifications to the mkiv supra.

4-Gauge Alternator Lead 
  by Alex G.

easy/inexpensive camera
mount 
  by larry bryant

racelogic traction control installation
  
by derek w.
fuel
bypass line mod

auto to 6spd transmission
conversion
   by mohd a.


trd twin clutch install 
translated



  
by
akira o.
& melvin peoples
fmic
/ radiator panel pics & install

egr
mod’s
removing
trac butterfly
euro
lights electronic beam adjustment
   by dimitri keramidas
fog
light mod
   by doug moore
blitz
power id installation instructions
(excel, 77kb)  
by scott h.
stillway
shifter installation instructions
  
by chris romano
stock fan mod  
by alan stanek
oil
pressure sensor mod
   by
mani
j.
indiglo
gauge Install
   by larry m.
polishing/cleaning
the headlights
   by huy vu,
peter shieh, daniel cabuco
european
hood scoop install
   by ron
lmbertson & piotr kapiszewski
bd
short shifter photos
  
by peter w. & george datuashvili
doluck
floor bruce photos
   by nils
fluidyne
radiator photos & catalog scan
   by jeff hood
ettc
mod
   by jeff l.
trd stainless steel brake lines
kit Install 
 
by brian b.
veilside
6spd shift knob photos
  by dave m.
cusco
front & rear strut brace photos / install
custom built front grill   by todd rafferty & mark josewski
trd
strut brace installation photos & translated instructions
   by kirk
na supra direct port nos setup
photos
   by dan wilson
true twin turbo conversion
(ttc) mod
   by randy dellinger
12 volt fuel pump mod   by bryce danna & brian b.
ebv mod   by noel samuel & jason knippel
trac mod
& speedlimiter mod
front brake cooling ducts
mod
   by randy dellinger
documented / recorded mechanical problems
click here to download the infamous ‘death whine’, the sound caused by failure of the 2nd turbo,
or in few cases 1st turbo too (1mb, .wav format),  also here
on a video.(0.14mb, .wmv format)
problem solvers

trac off light + mil +
cruise control dropouts + no abs lamp
   by john cribb


OBDII Code Eliminator after Removing VSV’s 


by Tom Cardone & Al Stanek

smoking
burnt oil on start up? valve stem seal replacement on ’93-’98 toyota supra
turbo
need
to reset your ecu?
failed
lamp sensor fix
   by john cribb
oxygen
sensor simulator (for 96-98)
   by george
datuashvili
need
a cup holder?
front
end popping noise cure
  
by trevor f.
srs airbag light on or flashing?   by randy dellinger
rear hatch rattle
fix
   by mark josewski
targa top rattle fix  
by mark josewski
other info

Fuel Pump Upgrade Guide  
by  Jeff Lucius
tint removal  
by aaron rountree

techtom obd1 reader

6-spd ratio info, v160 & v161

(excel, 75kb)


  by lance w.

valve
stem seal replacement on ’93-’98 toyota supra turbo
   by
phil panas

coolant flush
  by john cribb

how
to replace spark plugs on supra twin turbo

how
to replace spark plugs on supra na
read your spark plugs
suspension
spring rates
rear
wheel bearing replacement
   by
chris bergemann
clutch
installation(6-spd)
   by
chris bergemann
lance
alignment
   by lance
w.
jeff
h. advice on brake pads
   by jeff h.
read
your supra vin number
   by chris miller
6spd/luk
dual-mass flywheel

getrag
final
answer about redLine d-4 question for the 6-spd transmission
6spd(v160)
tranny repair
   by carey morris
6–spd
spec’s
6-spd
v161 article
supra
alignment tech
   by ben lew
valentine
one user programmable features
   by valentine1.com
obd-I
engine
diagnostic
codes 
  by carey morris
obd-II
engine diagnostic codes
how
to dyno a supra tt
   by jason knippel
supra
microfiche


drag racing basics 
  by mark josewski


Removal of the Trac Pump & Trac Actuator 
manual resource


greddy fmic install
manual
 
by jonathan
w.
93-95 repair


manual

hks afr

manual

hks
type-1 turbo timer –
manual
tein
coilover –
manual
philip
long 2-step rev limiter install & tuning  –
manual
blitz
sbc-id manual –
manual
greddy
oil filter relocation kit photos –
manual
field’s sfc
manual
hks
evc ez
manual
hks
fmic type-s
manual
hks
bov install sheet
manual
hks
triple clutch –
manual
hks
hard pipes kit 

manual  by brian
b.
greddy
profec-b
manual
greddy
oil pressure gauge
manual
greddy
52mm boost gauge
manual
greddy
egt install

manual
greddy
turbo timer

manual
keyless
entry



manual
manual
keyless entry
programing
   by bryce danna   by bryce danna
96-97
keyless entry install
manual
1997
rs3000 security system install


manual

P
arts
Photos
catalogs
calculations
tech article links
All You Ever Wanted  to Know About 
NGK
Plugs!

Need a cup holder?

Cup Holders

 

dsc00886.jpg (133306 bytes)

dsc00888.jpg (150445 bytes)
dsc00889.jpg (143901 bytes)

dsc00887.jpg (153500 bytes)
dsc00890.jpg (160038 bytes)

 

The Wizard cup holder
Cupholder1.jpg (447011 bytes)

The Wizard cup holder
Cupholder2.jpg (447993 bytes)

mycupholder01.jpg (152994 bytes)

mycupholder02.jpg (166506 bytes)

ch_back_l.JPG (52134 bytes)

 

supra_su.gif (5342 bytes)

 

Front end popping noise cure

FRONT END
POPPING NOISE CURE

This is a HUGE VICTORY for me
and from what I hear I’m not alone in this search. Not
to slam to Toyota but I wonder if this should have been a recall….

The problem was a mysterious front end popping noise emanating from the
front drivers side suspension area of my 96 Auto TT.
This popping noise occurred from a standing start, hard left right turns or
even sometimes after braking hard then starting off again. This popping
noise was always most prevalent at low speeds (2-5 mph)

The confusion/ frustration starts when I started to trouble shoot my car
with only 13,000 real miles. I quickly realized that virtually this noise
could be from as many components as you could name from the Firewall
forward.

Any way after several unsuccessful dealer visits, days on jack stands, nights
laying in bed sleepless thinking what could be making the noise
a buddy and I finally figured it out.

Strangely enough it was the Drivers Side Motor Mount
The cost to replace
(installed) was $119.00 but it’s free if you have Power Train Warranty.

ng2.jpg (63043 bytes)

ng4.jpg (61361 bytes)

 ncf054.jpg (84715 bytes) 


To really isolate your individual problem, try the following (really)

Have a buddy to drive the car forward and back and load up the
front end by braking at about 2-3 mph fairly hard and hold the brakes hard.

Then, have him/her drive the car backward 10-15 ft and brake fairly hard
(this is not a beat the crap out of your car procedure)

Be sure to be standing next to the car and walk back and forth with the car
so that you can hear the popping noise…which by the way will most likely
be more apparent going backwards during this exercise…..

If you hear it under these conditions I would be 99% sure that its your
motor mount, especially if you have a well maintained vehicle

If you want to take it another step , take a wooden paint extender pole or
broom handle and have your buddy repeat the above braking drills ,
but on the reverse brake (where the pop should be occurring) walk with the
car and have the pole ‘square’ on the motor mount (with hood up obviously)
If you hear the POP and you have the pole in the right place you will
literally feel the POP up through your hand.

If it does vibrate crack a beer open and celebrate….

Good luck , I hope I can save someone some major headaches and time with
this experience……….because if your like me it was a little problem
that really diminished the driving experience of such an awesome car.

Now I can continue to Beat the crap out of C5’s without ‘Popping’ on launch.

 

Comments/suggestions? Email
me

 

supra_su.gif (5342 bytes)

 

Srs airbag light on or flashing?

How to turn off
the airbag light

Problem:
Disconnecting the connector behind the upper dash piece where the
odometer is located while the ignition key is turned on will result in the airbag light
staying on.

Here’s how to turn it off :

Go under the hood and open the diagnostic cap located on the
passenger-side near the firewall (see photo). Look for AB & TC.
Make two plugs with wire to fit into these connectors. With the ignition key turned to the
ON position alternate the two wires to the
negative terminal of the battery. They need to be done in a
consistent rhythm, about one second apart. TC,AB,TC,AB,TC,AB… This needs to be done
several times. If you can’t get it to work, try adjusting the speed. It is helpful to have
someone look at the airbag light while performing this to let you know when the light goes
out/blink.

diagnostic.jpg (24006 bytes)

 

supra_su.gif (5342 bytes)

 

Rear hatch rattle fix

There is a
quick and easy way
to fix the Rear Hatch rattle problem!


UPDATE:  Toyota has come out with
a revised Rubber Bumper setup to fix this problem. Part number

67293-14051
 

From Lance, physician another MKIV owner….

Much to my surprise, price the new blocks were only $8.00. Not only
that, doctor but Toyota redesigned the blocks to further avoid the problem. If you do remove the
old ones, BEWARE. The factory puts blue Loctite on the screws (they are Phillips pan
heads) so you need to make sure you get a square insertion in the screw head. I found out
the hard way, I had to drill the head off one screw and EZ out the rest of the screw. Not
a task for the faint of heart. The new blocks are worth every penny.

Replace
Both Sides, Left and Right!

 


supra_su.gif (5342 bytes)

 

Targa top rattle fix

Targa Top Rattle
Fix!


As long as I’ve had my 95 TT when it gets cold the targa top would
start to rattle, and I would have to tighten it down. Occasionally aggressive driving or
AutoXing would also cause a rattle. I always assumed this was due to the cold or the top
getting loose. Well it seems its not so….While driving to/around Houston last week, I
hit a *BIG* pothole right in the middle of I10! It jarred me and the whole car,
fortunately the wheels didn’t get tweaked. Unfortunately within a few miles the targa
started chattering worse than a set of GM F-Body Tops! I had to drive the 190+ Miles home
with every bump in the road causing my top to scream. I tried torquing the top in, but
that didn’t help. Actually, if I felt the top as I hit a bump, I could feel it moving!

Anyway…..When I got home, I whipped out the shop manual and took
the top apart. As I had guess, the bolts holding the rear “connection bolts” to
the top were loser than finger tight. I tightened them *real* good and put it all back
together (15 minutes). Since then I haven’t heard I peep out of the top!!! I haven’t been
to an AutoX since doing this, but I did drive the car up to Dallas in cold weather, and
again not a sound.

So…If you have a noisy Targa, try tightening those bolts. The
only tricky part was removing the weather stripping and Rain Sill without damaging them or
the sticky gunk that holds them on.

Eric

Thanks for the Tip Eric!

 

supra_su.gif (5342 bytes)

 

Need to reset your ecu?

ÿØÿà

Failed lamp sensor fix

Failed
Lamp Sensor Fix

 

Symptoms:

  • The
    (4) rear brake lights do not work, medications except for the LED brake light on the
    hatch.
  • The
    (4) rear taillights (same bulbs, viagra different filaments) work OK
  • Fuses
    are OK and the filaments for the brake lights in the bulbs are OK

Diagnosis:

  • Most
    probably, sildenafil the Toyota Lamp Failure Sensor (LFS) has malfunctioned.
  • The
    LFS (P/N 89373-14080) is in the brake lamp circuit for the (4) rear lamps.
    It is NOT in the circuit for the LED lamp which explains why the LED lamp
    continues to work. Its purpose is to sense when a lamp filament has burned
    out and notify the driver by a warning lamp on the instrument panel.
  • Unfortunately,
    there is no sensor to detect when the LFS itself malfunctions, and the
    driver is simply left without brake lamps (except for the LED)
  • Often
    (at least 4 known cases) the LFS has malfunctioned simply due to a cold
    solder joint, or a cracked trace on its printed circuit board. These can
    be easily repaired and will save the owner a bundle. (Most Toyota dealers
    charge over $225 for the LFS part alone.)
  • The
    LFS is in a small light blue plastic case (about 2” x 2” x 1”) and
    is located in the left rear quarter panel of the Supra, in the well behind
    the wheel. It’s easily accessible by removing two plastic covers in the
    rear hatch.

 

Tools
Required:

  • #1
    Phillips head screwdriver
  • Low
    wattage (<25 watts) soldering iron

Time
Required to Fix:

  • Only
    about 20-30 minutes

Procedure:

  • Get
    your soldering iron plugged in so it’ll be ready – the rest of this
    will only take about 10 minutes…
  • Open
    the rear hatch and peel back the carpeting on the left rear side (see
    photos)

 

 

 

  • Pry
    out the black plastic plugs covering the fasteners for the left side
    plastic panel, and the small triangular panel covering the left rear shock
    tower.
  • Remove
    the 5-6 phillips head screws for the side panel, and the shock tower
    panel.
  • Remove
    the (2) Toyota black plastic rivets – one is on the shock tower panel,
    and the other is holding the left side panel to the rear panel (covering
    the taillamp). Look closely for it, it’s there, but it’s buried!
  • Pull
    the shock tower panel off, and the left panel out – careful with the
    left panel – be sure to disconnect the interior lamp from its harness,
    and if you didn’t find that 2nd plastic rivet the panel is
    not coming out!

  • Locate
    the light blue plastic tab protrudng through the sheetmetal. It will
    probably have the hatch release cable and another harness running right on
    top of it. This is the LFS.

  • Reach
    into the well opening and hold the LFS with your left hand, and push on
    the blue tab with your right – it should pop right out.
  • Extract
    the LFS from the well, and remove the plastic harness connector.

  • Turn
    it over and see how the back fits on – remove the back to expose the
    printed circuit board.

  • If
    you look carefully at all the traces, you may be able to see a crack or a
    cold joint. Several list members who have had this problem reported
    finding the fault this way. With your soldering iron carefully try to
    bridge the crack with the existing solder on the board (there’s plenty),
    or touch up the cold joint. Try not to add new solder as it may bridge
    traces where it’s not supposed to!
  • Either
    my eyes were too old, or my LFS simply had a cold joint which I couldn’t
    detect. After staring at this board under a magnifying glass for 10
    minutes, I took the easy way out and “touched up” every solder joint.
  • Don’t
    reassemble just yet, but reconnect the LFS to its harness and see if you
    have brake lights now. If you do – congratulations! You’ve saved
    yourself at least $300-400 in dealer service charges.
  • If
    you don’t have brake lights yet, and you didn’t resolder every joint
    on the board (as I did) – try this approach now, maybe you have more
    than one fault. Try not to add any new solder!! On my LFS I noted there
    was plenty of solder and I had to be careful that the excess didn’t
    bridge adjacent traces.
  • Assuming
    you’ve had success – reassemble everything! If no success, reach deep
    into your pocket for that $237 for the Toyota dealer. (If it’s any
    consolation, Jeff Watson at Jay Marks will sell it to you for $150)

 

Any feedback
is welcome!
 

 

 

Oxygen sensor simulator (for 96-98)

Oxygen Sensor
Simulator


Casper Electronics is selling
O2 simulator for OBD2 cars. It is about $40 and I ordered it right away to
compare with my simulator. The simulator from Casper is very small, and nice
looking with 4 wires coming out of it. I connected to battery and looked at the
signal using voltmeter. The signal appeared to be quite similar to signal that
555 timer circuit produced, but appeared more random. It should work. I haven’t
tried on my car, but looking at the signal, it looks even closer to the real O2
data that I had collected earlier. If square wave signal was enough to fool OBD2
MKIV ECU, this one will fool it too. 

http://www.casperselectronics.com/gp/O2SIM/index.htm

 


 

What is O2 sensor simulator?
The OBD-II cars (1996-1998) have the two O2 sensors to measure the amount of
oxygen in the exhaust gas. First sensor is measuring it right after gases escape
engine and this data is used to adjust fuel trim of the engine, as well as catch
some faulty conditions. The second sensor is located after the catalic
converter, and is used to detect the health of catalic converter. The ECU
expects the signal from the sensor to be oscillating from below 0.4v to above
0.6v, but not above 1.2v, every few seconds when cruising.

If you install the aftermarket downpipe with no cat (which as we all know is
purely for off-road applications) the ECU will detect this and indicate the
error (MIL). The ECU is quite lazy at detection, and detects this condition
approximately during second long trip. You can reset the ECU to clear the error
code, but it’s very inconvenient, as you don’t really know if the error was
because of oxygen sensor or some important thing is wrong and needs to be taken
care of ASAP. It’s also quite annoying.

 

How to build Your Own Oxygen
Sensor Simulator!
The rest of the page shows how to build an oscillating signal generator with
just the right frequency and voltage to fool the ECU. It is based on classical
astable operating mode of 555 timer, so nothing revolutionary there. However we
spent few days of fiddling and testing to get the right behavior.

The parts will cost about $15 – $20 from RadioShack. It’s not that hard to
build if you have some experience.

Electrical diagram:

Components: 

R1 100 K Ohm
R2 1 M Ohm
R3 100 K Ohm
R4 10 K Ohm
C1 4.7 uF
C2 22 uF
D1 1.7v@20mA LED
D2 1.7v@20mA LED

Hookup:

Power source Ignition, or to the ECU
PIN #1
Ground One of the ground points or ECU
PIN #80
OUT ECU
PIN #47
(disconnect the O2 sensor wire)

Catalog part numbers from RadioShack stores:
(NOT for their online
system)

276-309 5mm wide angle red led 1.7v, 20mA
276-1723 The 555 programmable timer
276-1995A The 8 pin socket for timer chip. It makes soldering safer and
replacement easier
276-150A Generic PC board
64-3052A Pack of blue tap-in connectors
278-1225 Stranded wires (black, red and green)
270-1801 Small black plastic project box 3 x 2 x 1
272-1024 Capacitor, 4.7uF
272-1026 Capacitor, 22uF

 

Additional notes:
If you use different flavors of 555 timer chip or LEDs with different
parameters you will need to readjust the values of R4 and R2 to get the interval
and output voltage right.

Don’t attach it directly to the ECU right after assembly. Instead attach it
to the battery and check the output. You should get approximately 0v/0.7v
flipping about every 3.3 seconds when the car is not running, and 0v/0.9v when
the car is running. The current should stay below 10mA.

One LED should be always on whenever the power is supplied. Another LED
indicates when the output signal is high, so it should go on and off with the
signal.

When tapping the ECU wires, triple check everything before hooking up the
oscillator. The power source should read 0v when the key is removed, about 12.6v
when they key is at ACC and about 14.3 when the alternator is running. The
resistance between ground wire and the body shield of the ECU should be 0 ohms.
And it would be best if you run the car and monitor the voltage of the original
oxygen sensor wire before cutting it to make sure you have indeed got the right
one. The resistance between ECU PIN
#47
and ground is about 1.3 to 1.6 M Ohm.

The original sensor should still be dangling around, or plugged into the
downpipe. The reason is that ECU also monitors the resistance of heater circuit
inside the sensor. If you want to COMPELTELY disconnect it, you will need to
measure the resistance of the heater circuit and install the right resistor
between ECU PIN
#72
and ECU PIN
#31
Anyway, there is no need to do it if you just leave O2 sensor alone and
only intercept the oxygen signal wire.

Above testing and precautions will prevent you from frying the ECU and
spending major $$$$. Anyway, I assume no responsibility if you still manage to
do so.

Thanks to:

Mohd A, providing documentation
Nick P, running the
www.mkiv.com list,
Oolan Zimmer,
encouraging (and testing)
Steve V., RadioShack part numbers
Tovar
Millhollin, testing the prototype

Any
Feedback is welcome!

 

 

Problem solvers

new readers rides system!! click here to put in your entry.

mkiv.com

mkiv technical articles

last updated
05/03/2004

disclaimer:
mkiv.com is not responsible for any negligence in installation or inaccuracies of the procedures.
use at your own risk!
index

bpu
   (basic performance upgrades)
1.
downpipe,
exhaust
& intake
downpipe photos
exhaust
photos
exhaust sounds
downpipe
installation
by dan marohl
cone
filters test results! ( 1 )  ( 2
)

custom
fitted apex’i air filter

by brian shoffner / shane duvall


apex’i air filter kit
by

erven
k&n
drop in air filter photos
k&n cone filter extension mod
by todd rafferty
k&n
air filters catalog
air
filter boxes
2.
fuel
cut
control
greddy bcc install
& tune
highly recommended  
by
brian b. & brian b.
greddy boost cut
controller(bcc) notes
by lance wolrab / david ruder
free fuel cut defencer (ffcd)
not recommended  
by randy dellinger
hks fuel cut defencer (fcd)
not recommended  
by william cruickshanks
3.
boost
control

electronic boost controllers(ebc)
photos
new avc-r install instructions &
basic tuning
by jeff lee
& mani jayasinghe
new
avc-r advanced tuning
by jeff lee
the new avc-r instructions manual
by mani jayasinghe
blitz dsbc electronic boost controller installation
by randy dellinger
blitz dsbc
users manual
by roger gerl
wastegate bleeder t mod
by randy dellinger
manual boost controller
by jason knippel / randy dellinger
clamp
mod
by peter w.
vsv bypass mod
by brian b.
vsv mod
turbo essentials

blitz new bov kit
turbo timers
photos
hks turbo timer installation
by shaun tran / brian b.
blow-off valve photos
twin
stock bov mod
spi
boost gauge install


by randy dellinger

a-pillar
photos install 
  by steve hayes 
a-pillar
photos
bpu+
   (basic performance upgrades plus)

adjustable
cam gears install
   by
brian b.

adjustable
cam gears photos
hks
fmic type-s photos
   by dusty / dan w. /
hesham o.
greddy
fmic install photos(for stock turbos)
by andi b.
bpu++
   (basic performance upgrades plus plus)
fuel
control photos – (afc,sfc,vpc/gcc & more)
 
greddy
e-manage fuel controller install
   by steve v. & mohd a.
apexi
afc install instructions

by steve v. & robert s.

apex’i
itc installation

by robert s.

nos
install photos
apu    (advanced performance upgrades)
 
greddy
e-manage fuel controller install
  fuel
pumps testing
   by david henry
fuel
control(afc,sfc,vpc/gcc & more)
apexi
afc install instructions

by steve v. & robert s.

apex’i
itc install instructions
by robert s.
rps
turbo kit photos & install
rps
turbo kit photos
hks gt
intercooler install photos

by willie yee
hks t04r
install photos

by willie yee
hks
twin turbo install photos
by reg riemer & benjamin
treynor
hks single turbo install photos
by reg riemer
vpc install instructions
by nick p. & alan stanek
fuel system upgrade with 720 injectors
by nick p.
other
mods
/ photos
the following articles cover general
modifications to the mkiv supra.

4-Gauge Alternator Lead 
  by Alex G.

easy/inexpensive camera
mount 
  by larry bryant

racelogic traction control installation
  
by derek w.
fuel
bypass line mod

auto to 6spd transmission
conversion
   by mohd a.


trd twin clutch install 
translated



  
by
akira o.
& melvin peoples
fmic
/ radiator panel pics & install

egr
mod’s
removing
trac butterfly
euro
lights electronic beam adjustment
   by dimitri keramidas
fog
light mod
   by doug moore
blitz
power id installation instructions
(excel, 77kb)  
by scott h.
stillway
shifter installation instructions
  
by chris romano
stock fan mod  
by alan stanek
oil
pressure sensor mod
   by
mani
j.
indiglo
gauge Install
   by larry m.
polishing/cleaning
the headlights
   by huy vu,
peter shieh, daniel cabuco
european
hood scoop install
   by ron
lmbertson & piotr kapiszewski
bd
short shifter photos
  
by peter w. & george datuashvili
doluck
floor bruce photos
   by nils
fluidyne
radiator photos & catalog scan
   by jeff hood
ettc
mod
   by jeff l.
trd stainless steel brake lines
kit Install 
 
by brian b.
veilside
6spd shift knob photos
  by dave m.
cusco
front & rear strut brace photos / install
custom built front grill   by todd rafferty & mark josewski
trd
strut brace installation photos & translated instructions
   by kirk
na supra direct port nos setup
photos
   by dan wilson
true twin turbo conversion
(ttc) mod
   by randy dellinger
12 volt fuel pump mod   by bryce danna & brian b.
ebv mod   by noel samuel & jason knippel
trac mod
& speedlimiter mod
front brake cooling ducts
mod
   by randy dellinger
documented / recorded mechanical problems
click here to download the infamous ‘death whine’, the sound caused by failure of the 2nd turbo,
or in few cases 1st turbo too (1mb, .wav format),  also here
on a video.(0.14mb, .wmv format)
problem solvers

trac off light + mil +
cruise control dropouts + no abs lamp
   by john cribb


OBDII Code Eliminator after Removing VSV’s 


by Tom Cardone & Al Stanek

smoking
burnt oil on start up? valve stem seal replacement on ’93-’98 toyota supra
turbo
need
to reset your ecu?
failed
lamp sensor fix
   by john cribb
oxygen
sensor simulator (for 96-98)
   by george
datuashvili
need
a cup holder?
front
end popping noise cure
  
by trevor f.
srs airbag light on or flashing?   by randy dellinger
rear hatch rattle
fix
   by mark josewski
targa top rattle fix  
by mark josewski
other info

Fuel Pump Upgrade Guide  
by  Jeff Lucius
tint removal  
by aaron rountree

techtom obd1 reader

6-spd ratio info, v160 & v161

(excel, 75kb)


  by lance w.

valve
stem seal replacement on ’93-’98 toyota supra turbo
   by
phil panas

coolant flush
  by john cribb

how
to replace spark plugs on supra twin turbo

how
to replace spark plugs on supra na
read your spark plugs
suspension
spring rates
rear
wheel bearing replacement
   by
chris bergemann
clutch
installation(6-spd)
   by
chris bergemann
lance
alignment
   by lance
w.
jeff
h. advice on brake pads
   by jeff h.
read
your supra vin number
   by chris miller
6spd/luk
dual-mass flywheel

getrag
final
answer about redLine d-4 question for the 6-spd transmission
6spd(v160)
tranny repair
   by carey morris
6–spd
spec’s
6-spd
v161 article
supra
alignment tech
   by ben lew
valentine
one user programmable features
   by valentine1.com
obd-I
engine
diagnostic
codes 
  by carey morris
obd-II
engine diagnostic codes
how
to dyno a supra tt
   by jason knippel
supra
microfiche


drag racing basics 
  by mark josewski


Removal of the Trac Pump & Trac Actuator 
manual resource


greddy fmic install
manual
 
by jonathan
w.
93-95 repair


manual

hks afr

manual

hks
type-1 turbo timer –
manual
tein
coilover –
manual
philip
long 2-step rev limiter install & tuning  –
manual
blitz
sbc-id manual –
manual
greddy
oil filter relocation kit photos –
manual
field’s sfc
manual
hks
evc ez
manual
hks
fmic type-s
manual
hks
bov install sheet
manual
hks
triple clutch –
manual
hks
hard pipes kit 

manual  by brian
b.
greddy
profec-b
manual
greddy
oil pressure gauge
manual
greddy
52mm boost gauge
manual
greddy
egt install

manual
greddy
turbo timer

manual
keyless
entry



manual
manual
keyless entry
programing
   by bryce danna   by bryce danna
96-97
keyless entry install
manual
1997
rs3000 security system install


manual

P
arts
Photos
catalogs
calculations
tech article links
All You Ever Wanted  to Know About 
NGK
Plugs!